If i wanted something to polish I would have bought a Hardley davidson.. I guess i better not show videos of my car tire you will freak out with 2000 miles of road dirt on it alredy
I agree. I'm not so concerned about how shiny my bike is as I am about riding it. If I was one of those HD owners I see around my neighborhood I'd be spending most of the day polishing the bike just to ride it 3 miles to next bar to show it off and then spend most of the next day polishing again. I may not ride 20,000 miles a year, but I do ride WAY more than those guys.
I don't have a service manual yet, but I followed your description and photo and located both the reference sticker on the mount and the sticker on the shock. i also have a '98 Valkyrie that came with a spanner wrench. It doesn't have an offset so it probably will be difficult to use it on the CTX but I may give it a try, just to see. The thing I wonder is what does the change from 1 to 3 feel like? I find the factory setting of 1 to give a very rough ride if you get caught on a poor road with lots of uneven patches. This past winter has really done a number on the road conditions in the northeast and although many are being resurfaced there are still plenty of roads in poor condition. Won't increasing the setting from 1 to 3 make the ride even firmer? Sometimes when I hit some bumps it almost feels like I'm riding a hard tail with very little rear suspension movement. I'd like to be able to soften the ride a little but it appears this is not an option unless the scale is the opposite of what I think it is. I'm assuming 1 is the softest ride and 5 the firmest ride.
Thanks for your post.
So far I definitely can tell a very significant difference changing the setting from 1 to 3. MUCH smoother
ride. I hardly feel most of the bumps I easily noticed before. Yes it is firmer, but that translates to the shock rebound not
translating to the seat so much, and absorbing the bump better IMO. Seems when the shock is set softer the rebound is what you feel more. With a firmer setting, but not too firm, there is a bit less rebound/rebounce and the ride feels
smoother. I intentionally ran over some surfaces that I knew were a little extra bumpy (like railroad track crossings) and it is a very significant difference to me. Really don't think I need to adjust any more for now, just to have some room for when I load the bike even more
You will definitely need the offset at the end of the tool since the frame panel just in front of the saddlebag gets in the way without it. Or it might work without the offset, maybe, if you do
remove the saddlebag. But I don't think there is enough room behind that frame panel to turn the shock body enough to move it from one setting to the next. The ring of holes in the shock body that the tool needs to engage is directly behind that frame panel. The offset in the spanner is designed to get around that frame panel without removing that panel and also
what allows it to be done without removing the saddlebags.
prior and current bikes:
1973 Harley Davidson 125 dual sport- sold
1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 750- sold
1990 Honda Gold Wing GL1500- sold
2005 Suzuki Burgman 650- sold
1998 Honda ST1100- sold
2014 Honda CTX1300A (U.S.A. Ion Blue Deluxe)-sn: 489 - sold
2013 White Suzuki Burgman 650 ABS
2003 Honda Metropolitan CHF503 (wife's ride)
flickr photos of CTX1300A
Yep, that lone state of Maine is where I owned my first mc.