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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Needing to change the air filter. Have had a new filter about a month now and haven’t gotten to it. My question - realistically, how long do you think it’ll take, start to finish? I have had the top shelter off once to install a wire from the underseat plug to the front fork area. Just wanting to know roughly how involved it’ll be. Would like to get it apart and back together in once sitting, so I don’t miss out on some good riding weather. I am mechanically inclined, and I do have a manual.

Also - I know I had seen a video or step by step pics somewhere on the forum. A link for that would be great.

Thanx in advance.
 

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Plan for extra time for the first time. I'd say give it an hour at least just on the conservative side. I can do it in 30-40 minutes now, or possibly less if I'm really going at it. But I don't recommend rushing the first time especially. Most of the screws around the perimeter of the air box cover have a plastic tab to make them captive in the cover, but many do not or do not stay even being supposedly captive. Take care with what comes off the top cover that you can put it all back on in the right order (certain tubes or wires under certain components). Take a photo of the top before you start to help recall. And don't lose any of those screws down on top the engine or in the depths. :)

I've done this for my ST1100 as well as my CTX1300. It's much the same for both. The CTX filter does attach to the top cover with 2 screws to keep it in place while trying to replace the cover. Without being attached you'll never get it all back in place right due to how tight the space is getting the cover back on.
 

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Found these, haven't viewed them, nor have I changed the air filter, so hope they are of some use.


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Well, today was the day to change the filter out. With manual in hand, disassembly and filter change went rather well. Upon reinstalling lid, front didn’t seem to lay as flat as rear. Didn’t see anything holding it up. After installing screws and reconnecting electrical, found that one of the connectors for the heated grips had accidentally been trapped inside the air box. That’s why it didn’t fit 100% right. So, disassemble again, get everything where it’s supposed to be, then reassemble and get all plumbing on top situated. No problems - just a 15-minute setback.

Then I started trying to put the top shelter back on. While trying to reinstall the fuel door cable, looks like I lost the spring and one of the screws that hold the two white plastic latch pieces. Problem is - I think they went into the fuel tank!!! Not sure, but I’ve looked all over the garage, and I fear they made it into the open filler neck. Had removed the center screw to enable cable removal. Guess I will try to find a flexible magnet and poke around in the tank.

Sometimes I think people design stuff to be as hard to work on as possible. Air filter change on this bike is DEFINITELY not as easy as on a ‘64 Impala !!!!!

Thanx for allowing me to “vent”. Hopefully can get everything squared away tomorrow - and not have to await a dinky-Ass spring to be delivered!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well - God had mercy on me. Bought an extendable magnet, and on my third swipe into the depths of the tank, a small spring emerged on the end of the magnet. As for the “missing” bolt, I had it the whole time. Was looking for a silver-colored one, when in reality I had the black-colored (correct) one right there the whole time. So - crisis averted. And all panels and covers went back on without a hitch.

Filter was still looking good on the outside, a little dirty on the inside. But not as bad as I thought it’d be for 19,292 miles.
 

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I have no idea why Honda put the air cleaner in such a time consuming, difficult place when they want you to change it every 12K miles. What were they thinking? Oh, I guess it will put lots of money in the dealers pockets at $100.00 + per hour to change it out. I too will be having fun learning this process next year with my CTX just turning over 10K miles.
 
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I have no idea why Honda put the air cleaner in such a time consuming, difficult place when they want you to change it every 12K miles. What were they thinking? Oh, I guess it will put lots of money in the dealers pockets at $100.00 + per hour to change it out. I too will be having fun learning this process next year with my CTX just turning over 10K miles.
I guess you'll have to ask thousands of ST1300 owners about what they think of that one. Even though the ST put part of the gas tank up front where it usually is on a motorcycle the air box is directly under that where it is on the CTX1300. An ST owner must remove the upper gas tank in addition to removing the top cover of the air box. They've been doing that since 2002.
 

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Filter was still looking good on the outside, a little dirty on the inside. But not as bad as I thought it’d be for 19,292 miles.

That's why I'm still postponing to replace the air filter at 20,000mi ;)
 
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I agree that changing out your air filter at 20k miles should be no problem. Unless you do any amount of riding on dirt roads (I don't) 20k is not an issue. I have been in and around Honda motorcycles and cars for over 30 years and have always changed out the air filter at or around 20k and the filters always show dirt on them but never looked like they were pass due for a change. For what it is worth.
 

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Well then, I’ll just let her slide until 20,000 miles��
 

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OOPS. I originally posted about oil filters since I didn't really pay close attention to the title.

You are asking about AIR filters.

I do use OEM Air filters. But there are many who use K&N aftermarket filters.

One detail of note with this bike is that there are so many parts that are taken right off the ST1300 that you can find parts for that bike that fit this bike.
The air filter is yet another such part but with one small modification. The ST1300 air filter does not bolt to the top cover of the air box so has no holes for that. And on the CTX1300 you DO need to bolt the filter to the cover or good luck putting the cover back on while keeping the filter in the proper place.

ST1300 air filters cost less than the CTX1300 air filters. Maybe there is a very expensive guy who drills the holes? Anyway, someone here found that they can get an aftermarket ST1300 air filter and simply use the old CTX air filter to mark and drill the holes and it fits perfectly. Just an idea. I think the aftermarket air filter used had a thicker end cap so longer screws were needed to make that idea work.
 

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Plan for extra time for the first time. I'd say give it an hour at least just on the conservative side. I can do it in 30-40 minutes now, or possibly less if I'm really going at it. But I don't recommend rushing the first time especially. Most of the screws around the perimeter of the air box cover have a plastic tab to make them captive in the cover, but many do not or do not stay even being supposedly captive. Take care with what comes off the top cover that you can put it all back on in the right order (certain tubes or wires under certain components). Take a photo of the top before you start to help recall. And don't lose any of those screws down on top the engine or in the depths. :)

I've done this for my ST1100 as well as my CTX1300. It's much the same for both. The CTX filter does attach to the top cover with 2 screws to keep it in place while trying to replace the cover. Without being attached you'll never get it all back in place right due to how tight the space is getting the cover back on.
Give you $50 to change it for me lol
 

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I guess this is as good thread as any to pose the philosophical question

Which air filter to buy and why?

OEM vs K&N vs Emgo vs Hiflofiltro

OEM
Air filter (ST1300)17210-MCS-G00
Air filter17210-MJN-A00

Yes the ST1300 air filter will need ~slight~ modification in the way of two mounting holes drilled in the same spot as the CTX 1300 but it is about $15 cheaper.

Aftermarket

 
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