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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am finally getting to upgrading my electrical farkle harness from what I initially installed. Last summer I installed connections for GPS, heated gloves, two 12v DC sockets, and a dedicated circuit for the horns (I have 2 horns and a dedicated circuit for just those does make a difference). This weekend I also finally built my work bench in the garage and then started in on the upgrades.

The horn and always-on 12v socket will remain unchanged since those were the last to go in and I did it the way I wanted it to stay. Same for the second switched 12v socket in my right pannier since I used the factory plug for that.

I will be changing the GPS and Garmin heated gloves connections and adding a rear LED tail/brake light bar and also providing for future driving lights that will flash with the turn signals. I initially plugged both GPS and heated gloves controller into the Aux pins of the Front Option Plug using official pins inserted in the dummy plug shell for Aux 12v and ground. No issues with power since both use less than 3 amps max. This connection will change. I will be adding a 3 position fuse block from Eastern Beaver to provide power to all of these items. One fuse position will be reserved for the future driving lights. Yesterday and today I am mostly finished with the under-seat part of the new harness including a splice pigtail to extract relay trigger signals for brake and both turn signals. This splice pigtail will insert between the factory 6 pin connector that is under the seat and goes to the tail light LED assembly. This way I don't mess with the factory wires and can easily remove what I do to return the bike to mint factory condition.
Here is the completed pigtail with wires ready to run to the other connectors.


I now have the brake relay wired into the pigtail and connector that will go to the LED tail/brake bar and the mounting plate made from aluminum for the light bar. I am running one fuse from the fuse block to an under-seat connector that will also have wires for the turn signal triggers to return from there to the front shelter. The turn signal wires will terminate with weather seals on the connector until I use them.
I will be adding more photos as I move along. Time keeps me from doing much each night.

Here is my workstation for electrical work. You can see the board with all the burn marks from a great many past projects I've done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Heat delay. I'm not wealthy enough to have the climate controlled garage that some riders have that I've seen, with all the fancy finished features that you see in those Ultimate Garage commercials. I'm also not used to 98°F heat while standing over a hot soldering iron and bright flood light adding even more heat. Therefor I have been putting off working on this project for a few days since those were the conditions. Should be able to get back to it tonight and/or the next day or two.
 

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Sound like other parties might object to you soldering indoors....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Not really. I've done that work indoors before but I am now at the point where I need to be out at the bike while making the final connections for the remaining cables so they are not too long, as well as figuring out where to run things. I am taking a break from it right now.

I have the splice pigtail connected and verified to work with the stock tail light assembly and have my former set up for the GPS and Garmin heated gloves wiring redone now and ready to connect to the fuse block. I have the location for the fuse block figured and just need to put on the connector for the relay trigger. The Aux +12v wire from the front option plug that I was using to power those two items will now just be for the relay trigger on the fuse block. The ground wire from the front option plug will be left hanging for now. Photos coming soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well, Flickr did finally start to work again and then I didn't have time to post the photos, and then forgot until I posted for my other "new" addition for the bungee studs (see Accessories forum).

Here is the install for my electrical farkles upgrade.
After removing the top covers/battery covers and storage boxes then the middle cowls. Be sure to remove the pins at the bottom of the middle cowls for the radiator shroud just over the cylinder head covers that fits into the bottom of the middle cowls.

At this point I could get to the connectors for the button panels also and then I removed the top shelter.

I then disassembled the connections I originally made for my GPS and Gerbing variable controller. Those will now be powered by the new fuse block and I needed the AUX +12v connection from the front option plug to trigger the relay on/off for the new fuse block. I bought the fuse block already wired since I needed the relay that came with that option and also the connectors anyway and this saved me some work putting that together myself. I added a spade quick connect to the trigger wire from the fuse block relay to plug into the AUX +12v spade connector. Then I connected the fuse block assembly to the battery and that AUX wire. You can see the fuse block in the upper right of this photo just left of the speaker and the connectors and relay sit outside of the battery pos terminal. When I reassembled I had to ensure this relay and connectors didn't fall beside the battery or they would push out on the middle cowl.


You can also see the wire bundle from the fuse block connectors laying just along the main fuse box. I wanted the new fuse block there so it would be more easily accessible if I needed to get to it.

In this next photo you can see the new wiring under the top shelter and also the horn and my emergency 12v socket (under seat socket) wires that I didn't change from before. The red connector on the right is the AUX trigger connection. The white and green pair bottom center is for the GPS and Gerbing. I didn't need to change much for those other than re-routing those connections to one of the 2 pin plugs from the new fuse block. The red and green pairs (more than one, also bottom center) are for the 12v socket and the new pair for power to the plug under the seat to power my new LED tail/brake bar. The relay with the white base just under the ignition switch is the dedicated circuit for both my horns.


Here is the overall photo of under the seat. In the bottom center is the wire pair from the front as well as the 6 wire pigtail splice assembly I made to insert between connectors for the rear LED Light module. In the upper center you can see the mini relay I am using to turn on the brake portion of the tail/brake LED bar I added. It doesn't have pins but wires instead and is sealed. I didn't cut any of the wires much shorter than they came, much anyway. The red-blue-black twisted wires are the new LED bar and go to a new 3 pin connector. Tail light power and ground come directly from the front via the 4 pin connector. The brake wire in that connector comes from the relay that is also powered from the same wire connected to Tail light power. This relay is triggered by the factory brake light signal off the pigtail. BTW- I used the pigtail instead of cutting into the factory wires so if needed I could totally remove what I did without any damage or remains on the factory wiring.


Here is a close up of the pigtail splice inserted and the 4 pin connector for wires from the front. I used a 4 pin connector for the wire pair from the front so I could also add, at a later time, another pair for left and right turn signal triggers (already pinned on one plug but sealed on the other end of that plug set for later) to flash a set of driving lights with the turn signals when I get around to deciding on those.


This next photo shows in the back under the seat where I pulled the LED light bar wires (red-blue-black twisted set in the center) through from the license light channel. That other plug is from the license light.



This is how I mounted my new tail/brake LED bar. I used a heavy aluminum plate that was at one time a filler plate for my wife's scooter while waiting for her plates (Thank you Honda dealer). I cut it down some so there is only enough plate to hold the LED bar and the license plate in its new lower location. I used heat shrink over the wire bundle from the LED bar and a grommet where the wire bundle runs into the space where the license light channel is located. This channel is a small opening through to under the seat and made it easier than cutting holes all over. It also minimized how much wire is exposed. I only needed to drill a small hole in the bottom of the lower fender part for the grommet and wire bundle.


The bolts and washers (behind) and ny-loc nuts are all stainless. This LED bar is on lower intensity for running/tail light and then flashes bright for 5-6 seconds and then goes solid bright for the brakes.

Now, on to thinking about what else to add... Oh yeah, driving lights. I did find a 3" round 4 LED, 20 watts total, driving spot on Amazon that is a real spot light. Very high lumens and a 10 degree beam pattern. Now THAT is a driving light! Costs a bit more than the 6 LED rectangular lamps many here are installing, but I like the narrower beam and longer range. Should be able to aim these straight down the road and still keep the beam in my lane :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
And here is the upgraded electrical diagram (really a block diagram representation since I haven't added the electronic symbols to my program).
For the front the changes are indicated in the upper right of the diagram. I am no longer using the Front option connector ground pin since the fuse block from Eastern Beaver supplies that direct from the battery NEG terminal. The lower right on the diagram has a dashed line box around a future project to add LED driving lights. I am considering using THESE from Amazon which have a 10 deg beam pattern and are 20 watts each and supposedly 1680 lumens, just less than 1.5 amps, so a 5 amp fuse in the fuse block will work. I can use the factory mounting location for driving lights with these. The mini relays I have from Amazon have both these pins and are 20 amp rated.



For under the seat I've inserted the pigtail between the connectors to the rear combination light and tested before continuing with any other connections. Then I made the remaining connections and tested again before connecting the new tail/brake LED. And tested again after connecting everything. All is good. The pigtail is on the left side of the diagram and the 4 pin connector is on the lower right. The 4 pin connector has all 4 wires pinned on one side to properly terminate the ends from the pigtail, but is sealed and waiting for that future driving light install to pin the other two wire on the other side of the connector running back to the front with left and right turn signal triggers.

 

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Hey Bob, where do the 6 pin male and female connectors on the pigtail that connects to the CTX 6 pin connectors under the seat come from... are they the male and female sumitomo hx series 6 pin connectors 6P040WP-HV-F and -M ??...Thanks!
 

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And here is the upgraded electrical diagram (really a block diagram representation since I haven't added the electronic symbols to my program).
For the front the changes are indicated in the upper right of the diagram. I am no longer using the Front option connector ground pin since the fuse block from Eastern Beaver supplies that direct from the battery NEG terminal. The lower right on the diagram has a dashed line box around a future project to add LED driving lights. I am considering using THESE from Amazon which have a 10 deg beam pattern and are 20 watts each and supposedly 1680 lumens, just less than 1.5 amps, so a 5 amp fuse in the fuse block will work. I can use the factory mounting location for driving lights with these. My diagram shows the relays for the driving lights using pin 87A (not pin 87) so they will be normally on and flash opposite the turn signals on the same side as the operating turn signal. The mini relays I have from Amazon have both these pins and are 20 amp rated.



For under the seat I've inserted the pigtail between the connectors to the rear combination light and tested before continuing with any other connections. Then I made the remaining connections and tested again before connecting the new tail/brake LED. And tested again after connecting everything. All is good. The pigtail is on the left side of the diagram and the 4 pin connector is on the lower right. The 4 pin connector has all 4 wires pinned on one side to properly terminate the ends from the pigtail, but is sealed and waiting for that future driving light install to pin the other two wire on the other side of the connector running back to the front with left and right turn signal triggers.

Hey Bob, where do the 6 pin male and female connectors on the pigtail that connects to the CTX 6 pin connectors under the seat come from... are they the male and female sumitomo hx series 6 pin connectors 6P040WP-HV-F and -M ??...Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, those are the connectors from EasternBeaver.com found on THIS page. The female connector in the 6 pin does not come with the nose piece as the other connectors do. Jim at Eastern Beaver explained to me that they are unable to get that piece from the supplier without jacking the price way up. It's not needed anyway and works fine without it. Keep in mind they have a $20 minimum order or you pay through the nose for shipping. I bought this pair as well as a pair of 4 pin, 3 pin, some 2 pin connectors all from that connectors page, and the 3 fuse power block already configured with its connectors and a relay (first item on that link) to isolate the power from there. Very easy to wire up per my diagrams above. I am saving the 2 pin connectors for driving lights. The 3 fuse block that I bought comes with both ends of the 2 pin connectors for each of the 3 outputs so nothing added is needed there. DO be sure to read the instructions on their web site for connecting wire to their connector pins. It shows which way to put the seals on the wire and a recommendation for crimping the seals. I did solder the wires carefully and had no problems making up the connectors. Be sure to keep the pin crimps somewhat round and not flat to make it easier to insert them into the connector shells. Too flat and the pins will bind and then can be almost impossible to insert. I didn't use the Posi-tap included but instead soldered on a spade connector on the end of the relay trigger wire to match up with the spade already on the wire from my AUX pin in the front option plug. That's what turns on/off the power to the fuse block when the bike is on/off. To use that front option AUX connector I bought some extra pins and seals with a previous order of the same size (Sumitomo HX .040), male and female, for that connector.

Since everything on this bike is LED and therefore low power I am using 18 gauge wire for everything except the 12v power sockets I added. 16 gauge wire for those, and Sumitomo HX .090 pins (same web page as the .040 but at the bottom of the page) for the 12v socket option connector under the seat. I just pulled the dummy blank seals out and inserted the pins and seals that I wired for that item (see my other threads on the 12v socket in the right saddlebag farkle).

Then for my emergency socket that I also added I used 14 gauge wire and my own connectors directly to the battery.
 

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Yes, those are the connectors from EasternBeaver.com found on THIS page. The female connector in the 6 pin does not come with the nose piece as the other connectors do. Jim at Eastern Beaver explained to me that they are unable to get that piece from the supplier without jacking the price way up. It's not needed anyway and works fine without it. Keep in mind they have a $20 minimum order or you pay through the nose for shipping. I bought this pair as well as a pair of 4 pin, 3 pin, some 2 pin connectors all from that connectors page, and the 3 fuse power block already configured with its connectors and a relay (first item on that link) to isolate the power from there. Very easy to wire up per my diagrams above. I am saving the 2 pin connectors for driving lights. The 3 fuse block that I bought comes with both ends of the 2 pin connectors for each of the 3 outputs so nothing added is needed there. DO be sure to read the instructions on their web site for connecting wire to their connector pins. It shows which way to put the seals on the wire and a recommendation for crimping the seals. I did solder the wires carefully and had no problems making up the connectors. Be sure to keep the pin crimps somewhat round and not flat to make it easier to insert them into the connector shells. Too flat and the pins will bind and then can be almost impossible to insert. I didn't use the Posi-tap included but instead soldered on a spade connector on the end of the relay trigger wire to match up with the spade already on the wire from my AUX pin in the front option plug. That's what turns on/off the power to the fuse block when the bike is on/off. To use that front option AUX connector I bought some extra pins and seals with a previous order of the same size (Sumitomo HX .040), male and female, for that connector.

Since everything on this bike is LED and therefore low power I am using 18 gauge wire for everything except the 12v power sockets I added. 16 gauge wire for those, and Sumitomo HX .090 pins (same web page as the .040 but at the bottom of the page) for the 12v socket option connector under the seat. I just pulled the dummy blank seals out and inserted the pins and seals that I wired for that item (see my other threads on the 12v socket in the right saddlebag farkle).

Then for my emergency socket that I also added I used 14 gauge wire and my own connectors directly to the battery.
Many thanks for the efforts taken to create some documentation for new bike owners (like me).

I'm trying to prepare to add a GPS, and have most of the parts (RAM mount, GPS itself, etc.) on order.

But, I'm having trouble understanding what needs to be bought in order to tap into the front option connector for accessory power (I haven't removed any of the covers yet).

It's clear I'll need Sumitomo .040 pins -- but do I need male, or female? And, is there a dummy connector already plugged in that will accept newly pinned wire leads, or do I also need to buy one of the connectors on that easterbeaver site too? If so, which one? There are 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 position connectors in a variety of different configurations.

(This is coming from a former flight test aircraft electronics technician that is still somewhat fluent in the subject of electrical wiring...)

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@ndfan77-
First order of business is to ensure you have the service manual. It has the electrical diagrams and also within the first few chapters shows the location of almost all connectors. There is one connector I really wanted to find but have been unable to as yet, the rear option connector. It simply doesn't seem to exist on my bike.

Yes, Sumitomo HX .040 pins are needed. I don't recall if male or female pins but look at the plug to determine that. All of the connectors with dummy shells I've made use of on this bike I had to look at the plug before ordering to determine that. I just don't recall if it is mentioned in any of my posts submitted so far.

Yes also, the front option connector has a dummy shell that can be populated with pins to make it live. That is what I did. The electrical diagrams in the SM will show what pin is needed for ACC and Ground. I elected in the end to use my own ground so I am currently only using the ACC pin in that connector to turn on my fuse block purchased at Eastern Beaver (I did temporarily use the ground pin there and changed it as noted in this thread so some photos show a spare wire in that area). In case you haven't found it yet... the front option connector is the bottom of two stacked connectors just below and to the right of the ignition switch after you take off the top shelter. I found I could unplug the dummy shell and put the pins in while off the bike and then plug it in when done.

Be very careful to solder wire to the pins for these connectors. Mainly to keep solder to a minimum needed to attach the wire so the pin will fit all the way into the plug shell and click into place. I did use the seals on these pins since that plug is facing the fork tunnel and there is weather blowing up through there. As with most plug pins there are two sets of wire tabs to crimp over the wire, one for the bare wire and the end set for going over the insulation. This second set of tabs is also what holds the seals to the pins. The seals have a ribbed section and and smooth sleeve section. The smooth section goes toward the end of the pin and is crimped in the last set of tabs on the pin. When crimping these tabs care should be taken to avoid ending up with them simply flattened, again to allow the pin to fit into the shell. I ended up overlapping the tabs. I really didn't need the tab crimps to hold the wire since I soldered them (better connection).

I used to work in micro-miniature repair in the Navy many years ago but am very rusty as to the quality of my work. It's been too many years away from it. I can still do acceptable work for this application though. :D

Good luck with it all. Feel free to ask about anything.
 

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Bob, I have an electrical question. I am getting Eastern Beaver's "3 Circuit Solution Sealed All Fuses Switched" to hook my GPS, camera and hone charger to a central location. Instead of posi-tapping the switching lead to a positive switch wire in use and then ground the ground wire. Can I use the Sealed MT090 Pins and Seals and plug it into the switched connector under the seat (since I am moving the GPS from that connector). If not would it be alright to posi tap that wire and then ground the switching ground wire to the frame?

Sorry if this is confusing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bob, I have an electrical question. I am getting Eastern Beaver's "3 Circuit Solution Sealed All Fuses Switched" to hook my GPS, camera and hone charger to a central location. Instead of posi-tapping the switching lead to a positive switch wire in use and then ground the ground wire. Can I use the Sealed MT090 Pins and Seals and plug it into the switched connector under the seat (since I am moving the GPS from that connector). If not would it be alright to posi tap that wire and then ground the switching ground wire to the frame?

Sorry if this is confusing.
Not confusing at all. No problem using that connector to switch the 3CS on/off. But don't use frame for ground. Not really reliable in all places. I would use the negative wire in that same factory connector for that. The items you mention won't need more ground wire size than provided in that connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
@bigdaddy2036 , Just be mindful that there is only a 10 amp fuse on that plug. It is shared by other electrical things on the bike so don't ever change that for a bigger or smaller fuse. Of course, if only using as a trigger for the Eastern Beaver fuse block relay there is no chance you'll ever come close to needing more since relay triggers are such a small load.
 

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@bigdaddy2036 , Just be mindful that there is only a 10 amp fuse on that plug. It is shared by other electrical things on the bike so don't ever change that for a bigger or smaller fuse. Of course, if only using as a trigger for the Eastern Beaver fuse block relay there is no chance you'll ever come close to needing more since relay triggers are such a small load.
The Yellow wire is just a trigger wire and the black is the ground or the trigger wire.
 

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I’m looking for some advice with the installation of extra brake lights. Following @bob posts, I’m looking to get one of the Custom Dynamics mini bar shown in earlier post on that thread. BTW, thanks for a very nice write up!

I have few questions:
* What kind of relay have you guys used to trigger the brake signal? Is it a regular automotive relay or some special waterproof ones? If you could send a link to one, it would be great. I’ve found a waterproof relay like this on amazon, but with 30/40 Amps capacity is a bit of overkill for LED current needs 😊. I’m struggling to find anything smaller though:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTQNJKM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1EQP448COWZL4&psc=1

* The pigtail harness. I guess you used the pigtail harness so not to cut into bike harness. Is that correct or is there another reason for that extra harness? I like the idea of not cutting the original bike harness. I also had a question about the correct connector but in one of the earlier posts you already specified the 6 way connector 6P040WP-HV-M-S + female side, so I think I’m good here.

I’ve already got a 6-way fuse box in anticipation of future additions. Right now I’m thinking that I may add some extra running / fog lights and perhaps heated grips in future.

Thank you very much for any comments and suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The pigtail I made is exactly that... just to avoid cutting into the bike wires. The pigtail duplicates all the wires in the 6 pin connector except that the ones I want to tap off of have that in the pigtail. I could simply remove the pigtail and plug the connectors it fit between back together and all is back to factory spec. If you don't want to go to the trouble of making a pigtail I would recommend using Posi-Tap connectors. They are reliable and the least invasive of any other kind of connector that taps into a stock wire. Get the right size. Most likely the blue ones should be right IIRC. I just tend to do more than I sometimes really need to because I like to fiddle with wires.

For a good relay I have been using this one from Amazon:

Directed Electronics 8616 Relay Assembly Mini
by Discount Electronics 2009


These are reliable and only 10 amp constant with 20 amp burst (sometimes happens at initial power on for some devices). I wouldn't go smaller but you definitely don't need bigger than these. They are also a small form factor so fit in almost anywhere. They come with a cheat sheet that shows what each wire color is for each "pin" of a standard relay.
 
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