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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I apologize in advance for the ignorant question but how do you replace the battery? I have the panel removed, the clamp and cables disconnected, but I will be darned if I can figure out how to physically get the battery out. The manual is no help. Is there some trick? A video would be wonderful but I can't seem to find one.
I appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Bob
 

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There are a few recent posts about removing the middle cowl (colored panel below the battery cover). It is easier to get the battery out with that panel also removed. I think I did get mine out to replace with only the battery cover off but it took some effort. Still had to pull out just a little on the middle cowl to do it. Tip the battery toward the rear a little also. The stock battery sits on a plastic spacer in the bottom of the battery box that also has a bit that comes up part way on the rear of the battery (toward the rider). If you have a battery handle that will help most (plastic handle that attaches to the battery and rare for mc batteries).
 

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How many have replaced their battery? I still have the original, so then which did you replace it with, several options! I tend to buy the best one, $170 for a Yuasa on amazon.
 

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Bob gave the best advice. It will come out with just your fingers pulling it out but will be a struggle. The smaller the fingers the better. I had to replace my battery last year after owning it just a week or so. Even though my bike had zero miles on it, the battery was four years old and toast. Rather that return it to the original dealer that was an hour and a half away, I bought one from a local Honda dealer and replaced it myself. I still remember the struggle to get it out but it came out. Good luck.
 

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I have had mine out many times without a lot of effort. You can do it!!!

You don't need a video. Just remove the battery cover and pull it out. It is tight!
 

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Curious as to what battery others have purchased.
 

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yes, just remove top black fairing cover and wiggle the battery out. I replaced mine ca. 4 month ago to be proactive- not knowing the age of the oem battery. I happened to be in an independent motorcycle shop when a rep. for mc parts came in and showed me a new lightweight battery. The brand name is Featherweight, 12V/ 60WH lithium. Cheaper, smaller, more cranking power and a whopping 6.2 pounds!!! lighter than the oem. the model nr for our bike is: 490-2517.
 

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How many have replaced their battery? I still have the original, so then which did you replace it with, several options! I tend to buy the best one, $170 for a Yuasa on amazon.
Not yet. 43000 miles. I even stupidly drained it one time. I always keep it hooked up to the Tender Jr. when parked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi,
Thanks for the advice. I am not going to mess with the left side color cowl panel. Especially after seeing all the issues with breaking these panels. I am just going to have it towed and pay for someone to install the battery. I have tried wiggling it out but to no avail. Maybe because the Deluxe has speakers? A tab on the left speaker is blocking me from lifting the battery out. Or, it could be because I have the mechanical aptitude of a rock!
 

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My battery is giving up(11.6 volts after sitting 4 days) so I will be ordering the battery Bob suggests from Amazon today. I have always done my own work and my skill level lets me be somewhat critical of work dealers do. Battery replacement is not something the skilled guys do. So the new guy who has the least time working on your fairly uncommon bike gets to work on it. Usually a bad combination. Find a friend, watch You Tube or find a independent shop you can trust. And really flipping thru a few web pages will school you pretty fast on the do's and don'ts on your bike. Mike
 

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I totally agree with bruceb about using a battery tender. I only use the "Battery Tender" brand and have had great luck with them. I have one on on everything that I have with a battery, like my riding mower, ATV and of course the CTX1300. I like their 800mA Weatherproof as they are tough and I have had them for over 7 years without any problems. My batteries last 2 to 3 times longer then without the tender. But make sure the model you buy is correct for the battery you plan on using it on.
 

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My Battery lasted 18 months the shortest life I've ever had from a battery that wasn't faulty, I replaced it with a cheapo one from Amazon as I refuse to pay almost 200 bucks for a battery unless its a lithium one, and yes I have a battery tender on both my Bikes when not being ridden a tip for getting battery out (besides swearing at it) get some string or heavy duty weed eater line wrap it around the battery two half times then tie it into a loop, put it under the battery so its a loop put battery into its position let the two loops sit on the top of battery .. presto buggery you have easy way to pull battery out. works on any bikes battery.
 

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I bought an AGM battery for my ST1100 at Walmart for around $88. Been a year now, starts perfectly every time, even after three months of sitting over the winter without any charging.
 

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I went with the Amazon AGM battery that Bob suggests as close as I could come. Total price as a Prime member was just under 42 dollars. The battery has been in for about a month and works fine. The old battery was probably not maintained properly so I can't say if that shortened it's life. I know that the AGM batteries in everything else I have last very well with minimum care. Mike
 

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I went with the Amazon AGM battery that Bob suggests as close as I could come. Total price as a Prime member was just under 42 dollars. The battery has been in for about a month and works fine. The old battery was probably not maintained properly so I can't say if that shortened it's life. I know that the AGM batteries in everything else I have last very well with minimum care. Mike
Only go with an AGM. They ladt 5-7 years and crank more power right to the day they die. Standard acid batteries are lucky to see 3 years plus have sulfation problems.
 
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Actually AGM batteries can also have sulfation problems but it happens much much less often and takes a lot more running in partial discharge to develop (the cause of most sulfation). AGM batteries ARE lead/acid batteries, except the acid is absorbed in a fiberglass mat wrapped around the plates rather than as free fluid flooded between the plates. Absorbed Glass Mat = AGM.

Some believe AGM batteries are the same as Gel batteries. NOT SO. Gel batteries are an entirely different animal. AGM batteries provide a much higher "burst" of Amps than Gel batteries and are much preferred in vehicle application. Also, AGM batteries don't spill when tipped over... generally... since the acid is absorbed vs. "Wet cell" batteries where the acid is liquid. Both AGM and Gel have lower maintenance than Wet cell since there is no need to regularly add water, and possibly acid, to the battery so those are sometimes referred to as "sealed" batteries.

Wet cell batteries are the cheapest. AGM batteries cost a little more. Gel batteries cost a lot more.
 

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I finally had to replace my battery on my Deluxe (speaker tab). I took a piece of strap (like chin strap material) and put two holes in it with an awl, about 8-9" apart. Attached it back to terminals with screws and lifted out positive side first to slide it out from under the speaker tab. No issues, took under 10 secs. Putting holes in the strap was the longer undertaking. Replaced new battery without strap but started with negative end down to slide under the speaker tab. Hope that helps someone.
 
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