CTX 1300 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

· Super Moderator
2022 Matte Deep Blue Kymco AK 550
Joined
·
6,118 Posts
@strich , by Back Off light do you mean a brake light that flashes for 6 seconds and then goes solid on?
I had a LED light bar that was dual mode on my ST1100. In running light (or tail light) mode it would move back and forth... like the front light on Kit, the car in Knight Rider. In brake light mode it would flash bright for 6 seconds and then stay on solid. Most states do not allow the "chaser" part of that light but when I asked about it I was told I wouldn't be bothered about it unless I was being stopped for something else. The brake light flash, then solid is specified by most state laws. IE: the light may flash for 6 seconds and then must go solid after that. It is not legal in any state for the brakes or any lights to continuously flash or wig-wag other than the emergency flashers. I do use this for telling those tailgating BDC to back off by tapping the brakes on a short time, enough to flash a few times, and then repeat as needed.

I do intend to install a similar LED bar on my CTX1300 and was working up the electrical diagram just today for it. I get mine from Custom Dynamics web site. HERE is the linky for the light bar I get. Scroll down the page to the Knight Rider Non-Sequential Dual Intensity 12 LED Light Bar with Flashing Brake Alert - Red for the one I plan to get. They are really a lot brighter than any of the videos show. I'll be using an aluminum plate I have to mount the light on top of and the license plate on the bottom half so the whole plate will mount at the license mounting bolts. I never power my farkles directly from the factory wires that are already being used by a factory item. I will be adding a fuse block similar to what csdexter added and a pigtail to tap the factory wires for a relay trigger such as Kookopelli did HERE. The emergency flashers will not be affected this way. I don't really see the purpose of changing the turn signal/flashers from amber to red. No lenses for it that I know of and you cannot simply use lenses for incandescent lamps as those don't work well for LED lamps. Messes with the focus and dispersion of the beam too much. And those are not "bulbs" anyway but LED lamps, so you'd have to find a source for those specific lamps. I suggest leaving the turn signals alone.

Here is the diagram so far:

Diagram corrected for typical color codes for trailer harness/plugs and also for trailer plug pin order. (ground wire is white after 2 pin plug under the seat)

The 2 boxes at the bottom are the connectors in front, one for a ground bar I put there and the other at the 3 position fuse block I will order from Eastern Beaver. The upper left shows the splice pigtail I will make, this is so I don't break into any factory wires and can easily return the electrical to factory original condition if needed. For the rear LED light bar I will only need one tap from the pigtail for the brake signal and only the brake relay and only the wires and connector shown at the lower right of this diagram. All the rest is IF I add for a trailer harness. This will isolate the electrical for anything I add from the bike factory electrical for protection from any issues I or my farkles cause. Don't want to void the warranty for me doing something stupid.

You will notice for my trailer harness that it is a 5 wire plug. All modern non-USA branded vehicles are naturally 5 wire systems for tail lighting. They have separate turn and brake lamps. Only USA branded vehicles are naturally 4 wire. Don't know about HD but I think those may also be 5 wire by design. I have found most motorcycle trailers now are 5 wire from their factories also. Those that are 4 wire are either made for towing by American branded vehicles or are "fixed" by their owners to strip out the separate turn signals. My Mini-Mate camper was previously owned by an older biker who did just that and the first thing I did to that camper was to return/repair the wiring to the original factory spec with the separate turn and brake lamps. The PO had fortunately left the amber turn lamps installed but had cut the wires for them. I find it much simpler to leave any trailer light systems as 5 wire and if needed add the separate turn lamps. More light back there where it's needed anyway.

See my flickr page for more photos and details of farkles on this bike.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
324 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
I just installed hyperlites on my CTX. Pretty easy to tap into the wires under the seat. And the whole mess tucks nicely into the space right behind where the seat tab clicks into the seat lock. The bigger issue was wire routing. I mounted my lights on the license plate bracket and then just snaked the wires through a crack between the plastic shroud and the rear light lense. Not the best for looks but ok. They work really well. Hit the brakes and you get a nice red flash. Then they stay on as running lights when not hitting the brakes.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Rear turn signals OUT

I decided to wire in a custom dynamics triple play module that turns the turn signals into running lights and also provides flashers when the brake is applied. I've done this to several other bikes I've owned in the past without a hitch. The module works perfectly on the other Honda's St1300 and GW 1800, however the CTX 1300 seem to be different After installing the module into the tail, brake,turn signal harness and attempting to program the module something went wrong. Now there are no rear turn signals and the front signals are flashing quickly as if the LED bulbs are out or the relay is shot. The running light and brake light work fine but no rear turn signals at all. Thoughts Please.Any help would be appreciated to no end!!!:350x700px-LL-66dd6d
 

· Registered
Joined
·
446 Posts
Replied to the other thread you posted in, note that it's considered bad etiquette to post the same question in multiple threads ;-)
 
  • Like
Reactions: bob

· Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
I decided to wire in a custom dynamics triple play module that turns the turn signals into running lights and also provides flashers when the brake is applied. I've done this to several other bikes I've owned in the past without a hitch. The module works perfectly on the other Honda's St1300 and GW 1800, however the CTX 1300 seem to be different After installing the module into the tail, brake,turn signal harness and attempting to program the module something went wrong. Now there are no rear turn signals and the front signals are flashing quickly as if the LED bulbs are out or the relay is shot. The running light and brake light work fine but no rear turn signals at all. Thoughts Please.Any help would be appreciated to no end!!!:350x700px-LL-66dd6d
Check fuses. Hopefully you didn't blow out your turn signal LEDs. The tail. stop, turn signal lamp is one unit with no replaceable parts. You will need to replace the whole unit. $313
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
644 Posts
superbrightleds.com

The following link is hard to beat If you are looking for a strobe module for your brake light.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...ght-strobe-module/195/845/#/tab/Photos&Videos

Did I mention it was only $5.
Works great and easy to install.

I just installed this strobe module, (which is still $4.95!), and so far I'm really happy with the results. Item arrived in sealed anti-static bag and most impressive, I went online for a chat with tech and got immediate reply to my questions which confirmed what I thought for wiring. Very easy to install and does exactly what it says it will. Thats the kind of product and pricing we can all like.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
I decided to wire in a custom dynamics triple play module that turns the turn signals into running lights and also provides flashers when the brake is applied. I've done this to several other bikes I've owned in the past without a hitch. The module works perfectly on the other Honda's St1300 and GW 1800, however the CTX 1300 seem to be different After installing the module into the tail, brake,turn signal harness and attempting to program the module something went wrong. Now there are no rear turn signals and the front signals are flashing quickly as if the LED bulbs are out or the relay is shot. The running light and brake light work fine but no rear turn signals at all. Thoughts Please.Any help would be appreciated to no end!!!:350x700px-LL-66dd6d
This is first bike I've owned with LED's all around. They for sure have a limit on current. And front signals blinking fast is because the 'load" of the rears are not there.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
272 Posts
@strich , by Back Off light do you mean a brake light that flashes for 6 seconds and then goes solid on?
I had a LED light bar that was dual mode on my ST1100. In running light (or tail light) mode it would move back and forth... like the front light on Kit, the car in Knight Rider. In brake light mode it would flash bright for 6 seconds and then stay on solid. Most states do not allow the "chaser" part of that light but when I asked about it I was told I wouldn't be bothered about it unless I was being stopped for something else. The brake light flash, then solid is specified by most state laws. IE: the light may flash for 6 seconds and then must go solid after that. It is not legal in any state for the brakes or any lights to continuously flash or wig-wag other than the emergency flashers. I do use this for telling those tailgating BDC to back off by tapping the brakes on a short time, enough to flash a few times, and then repeat as needed.

I do intend to install a similar LED bar on my CTX1300 and was working up the electrical diagram just today for it. I get mine from Custom Dynamics web site. HERE is the linky for the light bar I get. Scroll down the page to the Knight Rider Non-Sequential Dual Intensity 12 LED Light Bar with Flashing Brake Alert - Red for the one I plan to get. They are really a lot brighter than any of the videos show. I'll be using an aluminum plate I have to mount the light on top of and the license plate on the bottom half so the whole plate will mount at the license mounting bolts. I never power my farkles directly from the factory wires that are already being used by a factory item. I will be adding a fuse block similar to what csdexter added and a pigtail to tap the factory wires for a relay trigger such as Kookopelli did HERE. The emergency flashers will not be affected this way. I don't really see the purpose of changing the turn signal/flashers from amber to red. No lenses for it that I know of and you cannot simply use lenses for incandescent lamps as those don't work well for LED lamps. Messes with the focus and dispersion of the beam too much. And those are not "bulbs" anyway but LED lamps, so you'd have to find a source for those specific lamps. I suggest leaving the turn signals alone.

Here is the diagram so far:

Diagram corrected for typical color codes for trailer harness/plugs and also for trailer plug pin order. (ground wire is white after 2 pin plug under the seat)

The 2 boxes at the bottom are the connectors in front, one for a ground bar I put there and the other at the 3 position fuse block I will order from Eastern Beaver. The upper left shows the splice pigtail I will make, this is so I don't break into any factory wires and can easily return the electrical to factory original condition if needed. For the rear LED light bar I will only need one tap from the pigtail for the brake signal and only the brake relay and only the wires and connector shown at the lower right of this diagram. All the rest is IF I add for a trailer harness. This will isolate the electrical for anything I add from the bike factory electrical for protection from any issues I or my farkles cause. Don't want to void the warranty for me doing something stupid.

You will notice for my trailer harness that it is a 5 wire plug. All modern non-USA branded vehicles are naturally 5 wire systems for tail lighting. They have separate turn and brake lamps. Only USA branded vehicles are naturally 4 wire. Don't know about HD but I think those may also be 5 wire by design. I have found most motorcycle trailers now are 5 wire from their factories also. Those that are 4 wire are either made for towing by American branded vehicles or are "fixed" by their owners to strip out the separate turn signals. My Mini-Mate camper was previously owned by an older biker who did just that and the first thing I did to that camper was to return/repair the wiring to the original factory spec with the separate turn and brake lamps. The PO had fortunately left the amber turn lamps installed but had cut the wires for them. I find it much simpler to leave any trailer light systems as 5 wire and if needed add the separate turn lamps. More light back there where it's needed anyway.

See my flickr page for more photos and details of farkles on this bike.
Bob, I am looking to install a United Pacific brakelight mod on the 1300. It is rated as 12v 1.5A. Based on your experience and knowledge of the CTX's circuitry, etc. do you feel this module will be okay to wire into the brake wiring - using a pigtail to be able to return wiring to original state if need be?

I installed this same unit on my previous 2014 CTX700 on its LED tail/brake lights, and it worked wonderfully!

In advance, your insight is appreciated and valued.
 

· Super Moderator
2022 Matte Deep Blue Kymco AK 550
Joined
·
6,118 Posts
I am not familiar with the CTX700 wire system so cannot talk to that setup. I highly advise against modifying the OEM lights on this bike in any way. I DO recommend using a pigtail so you can easily revert back to stock configuration if that is ever needed. This all is why I use a LED light bar in addition to the factory lights. Most modules that advertise they can be used on LED lighting really refer to using on standard incandescent light wiring using LED replacement bulbs and that is where most bike shops and product suppliers mess up with this bike. It is not normal. We have had one member on the forum blow up his rear light assembly, at least the turn signals part. The problem there is that the entire rear light cluster is ONE SINGLE part with no replaceable components so if you blow out just one light element the whole cluster needs replaced. Kind of a pricey item too, like everything unique to this bike. I would follow the diagram in my post at least as far as running power direct from the battery (maybe through an aux fuse panel of your choice) to a relay and then on to any LED module or lighting. Use signals from the pigtail to trigger the power at the relay on/off for brake, turn, etc, as desired. That way any added LED light or module is isolated from the factory system and won't harm that.

If you choose to use a pigtail (recommended) to alter the function of the factory light cluster (not really recommended) I can't say what would actually happen using the module you refer to.

FYI- I learned a lot about the legal stuff relating to non-standard lights on any vehicle reading our state code (the law book for the state). Found that if you leave the factory lights as they come from the factory you have a lot more flexibility what you can do with added lighting. Some states vary from this. I like added lighting since more is better with lights. And if the added lighting flashes or strobes even for a short time (limited in some states like Iowa) all the better to get attention of some BDC (Brain Dead Cager). Not much can be done about those who follow with their nose in a cell phone other than to hope they run off the road where they belong before they run you over!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
272 Posts
I shall heed your advice. Thank you, again.

(I have contemplated a small handheld sign that I can carry with me that I can flash at BDC's on on their dumb-phones. Every day I see lane-weavers. Most of the time if I politely gesture to get off the phone, people think your are the jerk.)
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: strawhat1 and bob

· Registered
Joined
·
815 Posts
Mr Chaplain has one of these units installed on his CTX and it works beautifully and I have one on order now. Should get here tomorrow. It's still $4.95. With shipping it cost $7.80. You only need to break one wire. The one going to the brake light LED. The module goes in between and there is a ground wire from the module to a ground of your choice. Shouldn't take very long to install.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OneMileAttaTime

· Premium Member
Joined
·
287 Posts
Hi, you have a pic or quick description on where you stashed the module in our machine? Just ordered one. Thanks in advance!
 
  • Like
Reactions: OneMileAttaTime

· Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
This is what my brake modulator does:

This is what my brake modulator does:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeQa8qWMDjo&feature=youtu.be

I will confess up front that at 91 degrees, a howling SSW wind, high humidity, I looked at the pending installation and said to myself "I don't want to deal with this".

My local Honda dealer took it in immediately, professionally installed the unit, checked it, weather proofed the new connections and had me back on the road in less than 30 minutes.:)

And.....

he didn't charge me for the installation "because it was so easy".:tongue:

This is the LSC-100A unit. The dealer installed it immediately adjacent to the brake light housing, tucked safely down and inside of the rear light housing.
I will confess up front that at 91 degrees, a howling SSW wind, high humidity, I looked at the pending installation and said to myself "I don't want to deal with this".

My local Honda dealer took it in immediately, professionally installed the unit, checked it, weather proofed the new connections and had me back on the road in less than 30 minutes.:)

And.....

he didn't charge me for the installation "because it was so easy".:tongue:

This is the LSC-100A unit. The dealer installed it immediately adjacent to the brake light housing, tucked safely down and inside of the rear light housing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OneMileAttaTime

· Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
Sorry about the messed up posting. Tried to correct the youtube link and the site was uncooperative.

You'll have to right click on the youtube link and open in another window to view the strobe.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
272 Posts
Views just fine. Thanks for sharing. Looks great. Will definitely scare some motorists that you're a cop.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Funny that you mentioned the "cop" comment - I have had my CTX just now for 2 weeks; and just two days ago, a fellow asked me at a stoplight, if the CTX was the new municipal police motorcycle (plus I was wearing hi-viz gear similarly as the cycle-cops do). :cool:
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top