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My local dealer won't be able to do the 600 mile service until Thursday. I already have 660 miles and expect to do another 400 tomorrow.

For the first time in about 30 years, I changed the oil myself. I found a good writeup at Changing Engine and Differential Oil ( ST1300 ) * for the ST1300.

The tip about the foil was excellent. I would have had quite a bit of oil on the exhaust without the foil. The oil filter on the CTX1300 is very difficult to access. It is much more cramped than the ST1300 pictures show. The factory put mine on way too tight.

This was the first time I ever changed the oil on a bike with no center stand. It actually wasn't an issue. If you are careful, you can put a block under the side stand to hold the bike straight enough to look in the sighting glass.

I was impressed at how nice the engine looks. The painted surfaces look way better than the old bare aluminum I remember from when I worked on bikes in the past.

I have no idea what to do with the oil I removed. I have some friends who work on their own vehicles so I'm hoping they can tell me where to recycle it locally.
 

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If you have a Wal-Mart nearby they will take used oil for recycling (no charge!). That's what I do with all my oil when I do service myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I used four quarts of the Honda HP4 oil. I used the Honda filter. The local shop did not have parts list for the CTX1300 in their system, so the parts guy looked up the filter for the ST1300. It's the same filter most of the Hondas use.

I'll check the level again this morning and add a bit if needed. The manual says it needs 4.1 quarts.

If I continue to do my own maintenance, I'll get the K&N filter with the built-in hex nut on the end. It will be much easier to remove and install.
 

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I used one of those cup wrenches and a 3/8" swivel on a 3" extension and had no trouble getting the filter on and off. Honda sells a thin wrench that would make it easy, but they want $17 for it. Cup wrench was about $4.
 

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I also have a cup type wrench and use it with my 3/8 ratchet handle. Figure from photos of the engine that the filter looks the same as I use on my ST so would expect the wrench to fit ok.
 

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Good info on the oil changes. I usually change oil myself. Have used HP4 10w-40. Never researched other oil. A big affirmation on Shell Rotella T. I use it as many do , on our YANMAR marine Diesel engines in our Charter Boat fleet. I use the synthetic, blue bottle 5w-40 on my Mercedes Sprinter diesel, conversion van. Really glad to learn that its the top choice recommended in the above post. Thanks!!
 

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Oil changes

THE BOOK does not provide "other" weights of oil to use just 10W30 MA. I already bought 10w30 AMSOIL for it and i have filters I've used on my wing for oil changes, the oem replacement and the Fram.
 

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My local dealer won't be able to do the 600 mile service until Thursday. I already have 660 miles and expect to do another 400 tomorrow.

For the first time in about 30 years, I changed the oil myself. I found a good writeup at Changing Engine and Differential Oil ( ST1300 ) * for the ST1300.

The tip about the foil was excellent. I would have had quite a bit of oil on the exhaust without the foil. The oil filter on the CTX1300 is very difficult to access. It is much more cramped than the ST1300 pictures show. The factory put mine on way too tight.

This was the first time I ever changed the oil on a bike with no center stand. It actually wasn't an issue. If you are careful, you can put a block under the side stand to hold the bike straight enough to look in the sighting glass.

I was impressed at how nice the engine looks. The painted surfaces look way better than the old bare aluminum I remember from when I worked on bikes in the past.

I have no idea what to do with the oil I removed. I have some friends who work on their own vehicles so I'm hoping they can tell me where to recycle it locally.
Congrats on your oil change. I've not looked under my CTX to see the clearance. I change the oil on my '07 ST 1300 and will probably do the same on the CTX. I had the dealer do my first 600 mi service.. Most auto parts stores will accept used oil to be recycled.
 

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How much oil did it take and which brand and brand number oil filter did ya use??Thanks Ken!! Dave!!!
I have used Shell Rotella T6 oil in my ST 1300s. It has more zinc then other synthetics to lube the clutch. I've ridden over 75K mi on two ST 1300 with no problem. Pure one makes a filter for the ST 1300 that is much cheaper than the Honda filter and is still reliable. I change oil around 7-8000 mi.
 

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Oil...Change of mind.

Having used Shell Rotella products as mentioned, at my first oil change last week @ 430 miles, (anticipating our 500 mile road trip through the mountains of Western NC). I changed myself with Shell Rotella T 15w-40. I ignored the fact that the book says 10W-30. I believe my ST1300 gave the option 10-30 or 10-40. Anyway hot days I justified my choice. Yesterday took the bike to MR Honda in Asheville for my First 600 service @ 953 miles, less the oil change. When asked by the service rep, I told him my choice He acknowledged , He has heard of the Rotella choice before. And commented, as expected, Honda might hold that against you if there was a engine warranty issue. Mostly. he expressed the fact that 10W-30 , should be followed, as that's what Honda engineers has deemed. That makes sense to me..
I know that Shell Rotella #5 synthetic blend is 10W-30. However for now changed my oil again @ 979 miles to Honda GN4 10W-30, with a new Honda filter. Probably with the next oil change I will reevaluate my options of 10W-30. Oils.
Guess I've got a clean engine now!!
Side note, kind of tight without the center stand. I've been using 2x lumber plus1x under the kickstand. Loosen drain plug, slide low profile drain pan , drain, remove lumber , to further drain ( fair amount ). I use the filter end cap remover , fit on first, attach socket wrench almost vertically up for clearance, slightly snug. Fairly easy!
 
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I've used Shell Rotella-T full synthetic in my last 3 bikes (GW-ST) but those were well broken in by the time I got them except the Burgman. I will likely use what I've used in my cages before... Valvoline dino oil (10W-30 as required) for the first 2000 miles at least and then switch to full synthetic.

BTW- the official Honda service manual states on page 3-10 that "Other viscosities of oil may be used depending upon the average temperature in your riding area." So I think you'll be fine with the 10W-40.

420 miles on my CTX1300 now :D
Haven't really been able to take off on any day trips since I brought it home with so much family stuff going on. I wait patently. The next many weekends will offer more opportunity for riding.
 

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Hello all,

I just did my first oil change yesterday and it went fairly smoothly. I took my time as it was the first time and in total only took me a half hour and thats with spending the time to brace the bike on both sides so that it was level. (Can't wait for the center stand)...I think that it took the full 4.1 quarts of oil as I only used a little from the second gallon jug. I have put about 270 miles on her since the change yesterday and I have noticed more slipping that usual in the clutch. The only rotella t6 I could find was a 5w-40. Do you guys think this could be the cause. Should I drop the oil and try again? Maybe the t5 mixed synthetic blend?

Thanks!

Dubbs
 

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How many miles on the bike?
T6 is full synthetic, right?
I've always heard not to use synthetic until after the first 1000 miles on the bike, and some say after the first 2000 miles. That could be it. The clutch may just need more miles to settle in... kind of like scrubbing in a new set of tires, only it takes longer.
 

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I just completed the first oil change on my CTX1300. Went to Wal-Mart to get the right oil for the first time since I didn't have the right viscosity nor the right type. Read all I could from the owner manual and the service manual and though I could use different than 10W-30 if in certain climates or riding it a certain way to justify that I decided to stick with what the manuals recommended especially for the 600 mile maintenance. After my errand to Wal-Mart I still only had 591 miles on the clock but figured that was close enough. I could have taken a little longer of a ride to make up a few miles but family decided to stop by for lunch so headed home to spend a little time with the grandson and the rest and then sequestered myself in the garage to get dirty. Oil filter was on very tight so used my oil filter pliers type wrench to loosen it. I use a Bosch oil filter that is for both ST bikes and others and, since this uses the same engine, the CTX1300. It's a Bosch 3323 and is about an inch longer. I bought a few of those because Wally world was out of the SuperTech filters, both made by Champion and both really the same filter other than price. That extra inch is better for filtering but makes it impossible to use the Honda tool to install it, or at least get a socket handle or torque handle into that tool. I have the right tool that the SM recommends so went to plan B for proper tightening and used a crescent wrench to turn it on 3/4 to 1 turn after contact. So far it's working very well. It was actually easier to do the oil change, including/especially the filter change, than on my GW, ST, and Burgman. Did not have to remove any plastic as I would have to for all of those other bikes. And the oil filter itself was really not that bad to get at... not any more than the others once they had plastic removed... so I consider this one an easier oil change compared to almost any other bike I've had.

As was mentioned the oil/filter change needs more than 4 quarts to refill. In fact I bought a 5 qt jug and only have a few tenths of a qt left!

In my search through the UM and SM I found out that you are not to use oil that says "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" on that little SAE circle on the oil container label. The bottom of the outer ring in that SAE certification circle should be blank. Examples in owners manual. That pretty much leaves out all full synthetic and most other oils that I would use. I did find Chevron Havoline 10W-30 oil (red bottle) that was the right stuff, and the only one that was right per what I just mentioned. I think it would be ok to use full synthetic at the 8000 mile service even though all of those do say "Energy Conserving" on the bottles. May have to look into that issue some more before then.
 

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The note against "Energy Conserving" is due to wet clutch which may begin to slip if one of those oils is used.

Funny how in the US you're supposed to know about all those API/SAE codes whereas in the EU we simply label the bottle "for Cars" or "for Motorcycles" :D
 

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The note against "Energy Conserving" is due to wet clutch which may begin to slip if one of those oils is used.

Funny how in the US you're supposed to know about all those API/SAE codes whereas in the EU we simply label the bottle "for Cars" or "for Motorcycles" :D
Well that would be too easy. :confused:
 

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Actually, the bottles in a usual shop will be something like "for Cars, gasoline/petrol", "for Cars, diesel", "for Motorbikes, two-stroke", "for Motorbikes, four-stroke" and "for lawnmowers and other small stuff".
On the second line, you usually get the viscosity rating, such as "10W-40".

In a more up-scale or fancy shop, things will get proportionally fancier with e.g. Castrol doing things like "for Cruisers", "for Tourers" and "for Racing" etc. It is also Castrol which has both 80W and 90W gear oils with the latter being "not recommended" for final drives though in practice (and especially in motorcycle final drives) the latter kicks the former's arse by a longshot :)

Finally, H-D themselves were recommending in the owner's manual for the Sportster to use "oil meant for Diesel cars if H-D Genuine(tm) is not available and you need to top-up while on the road". Presumably, in the US, "for Diesel" means "20W-50" which is what it was using.
 

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Funny, in a way, that HD would have a recommendation for, or even have mention about, when they need to "top-up while on the road" and no other brand seems to have a need to do so normally. :)

Been doing a little bit of reading on the subject. Seems there are some who say full synthetic and/or energy conserving will not be an issue on a good conditioned wet-clutch... especially when new. They go on to say it's really the well worn clutch of about 25000-30000 miles that may show slippage regardless what oil is used.

Then there is the view on the other side that says absolutely not to energy/resource conserving oils and no to any oil made for other than motorcycles.

And then there's the middle view point that energy/resource conserving oils will work ok in new clutches but can cause increased wear (thus causing the poorer clutch condition at over 25000 miles?).

In the end it seems the best is to just use what is recommended in the manuals, 10W-30 non-energy/resource conserving oils, at least until further proof can be had indicating differently.

My other bikes didn't state these restrictions so Rotella T synthetic was fine. But oil has changed even in the last 5-10 years and now it's Rotella T-6 instead of just Rotella T and other changes too. I'll just continue to use the Chevron Havoline 10W-30 (red bottle) until I learn more about it.
 

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H-Ds have a dry sump lubrication system so they cared about having enough headroom (i.e. keep it way above the "MIN" mark) more than keeping it at a constant level (i.e. between the two lines on the glass) like for Japanese engines.

My Sportster ate about 200ml in the first 3000km and then tapered off to about 100ml in the next 3000 and then I only topped up some 75ml at 10000.
 
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