CTX 1300 Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok - a question for all you who’re smarter than me (OK - a question for everybody!!): should I replace both fork seal kits if only one is leaking??

Now to preface this discussion. Had both seal kits replaced, 22 months / 11,000 miles ago, at a Honda dealer with OEM parts I provided. Right side now has a good leak that I just noticed today. (Haven’t ridden it in 3 weeks or so.). Was changing engine oil for a 800-mile round trip I am taking Wednesday into Thursday. Think I am still gonna make the trip even with the leak. I was already gonna schedule my bike into the dealer when I get back to have a new rear tire installed and flush all the clutch / brake systems. Now I need to get seal kits ordered. But - one or two? Hate to go through the other if it’s OK. Only other tidbit is that my bike was trailered from south Texas to the MITM last year, and that 2,600 miles strapped on the trailer probably was a big contributor to my current leak.

So ... what say you? Will wait ‘til Friday or so to order parts, based on what advice my “friends” (??) give me!!! Thx in advance.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stlburd2

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,622 Posts
Have you tried cleaning the seals first? Look up using a SealMate fork seal cleaner. I have used the blue one since that is the first official one. I also have made my own from a plastic milk jug. Worked great. Many times a leaky seal is from grit that gets past the dust seal and into the oil seal. SealMate cleans that out and restores the seal. You do have to pull down the dust seal to use it properly to clean the oil seal.

Or if you still need to replace one I'd go for both. If the problem is really due to a worn seal then the other side is not far off. Though I have a hard time with only 11,000 miles on new seals and needing it again... unless you ride in some REALLY dusty gravel roads a lot.

And also check that the oil did not get onto the brake pads. If it did then even with using a SealMate you will need to swap out those since fork oil will do a number on brake pad material.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Great idea, @bob. Vaguely remembered about someone making one. Watched a 4-minute video from SealMate, and promptly went to my trash can and cut out an end section from my discarded Rotella T4 gallon jug. Not sure I got my “tool” all the way up and around the seal, but did drag some trash out and a good bit of oil on a couple tries. (Am assuming the seal stopper ring will not interfere while it is installed, ie it doesn’t need to be removed to get the “tool” up into the seal.) Held brake lever while on center stand and rocked bike forward three or four times. Looks like that was enough to compress forks about 1-1/2” to 2”. Cleaned off, repeat, cleaned off, repeat. After about 4 times, not seeing anything coming out now. Cleaned it good, and will let it sit overnight and see what it looks like. Left dust seal and cleaning cloth at fork base and “tool” with my wallet - so I don’t forget !!!!

Pads are fine. Was on center stand with wheel pointed straight ahead. Oil just ran down lower black cast piece on the fork.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stlburd2

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
My opinion, if both seals were replaced 11K miles ago and there was no problem prior. Then I would say there is one bad seal. I would only do the one seal.
I have 50K on mine an no seal problems at all. If that can be a reference?
Glen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Dry as a bone this morning. XLNT !!!!! Cleaned dust seal best I could and slid it back into place. Will check it good for further leakage when home from my trip Thursday and report back.

I figure it only lost a couple ounces of fluid from the right fork. I assume that’s nothing to worry about at this point.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
959 Posts
I found my right seal leaking and the bike was on the side stand so it covered parts of the right brake caliper. I had both forks seals replaced along with brake pads. But I normally let the dealer order the parts, then there can be no questions if they leak right from the start again. Are the parts that much cheaper getting them yourself? Also since I trailer the bike too I wondered if that had anything to do with the leak. Just can't say one way or another. I try to strap it down the same way all the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
The trash could have gotten in there on your trip to the Meetup or at the Meetup. I think everyone's bikes were gray with road grime on that trip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well - looks like new fork seals AND new front brake pads will be needed. Even if I could get the actual SealMate to get the seal serviceable again, at this point I have no idea how much oil is left in that fork. On my trip up to College Station yesterday, while riding I could look down the triple tree opening and see the drops of fluid dancing around in the wind at the bottom of the fork. And the first time I got on the front brake, it didn’t wanna ‘whoa’ much, even with higher-than-normal pressure applied to the lever. So it seems the pads DID get fluid on them. And now I have fluid on the radiator ... right header pipes ... front engine cover. Great - now I’m gonna have to actually CLEAN the bike !!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stlburd2

·
Registered
Joined
·
627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok - haven’t had the time to check out the manual (or the bike), so I’ll ask here: - Any way to drain the fork oil without removing the forks? Am assuming since they’re inverted forks with the barrels on top that all the oil will be up high. Was just thinking that if it could be drained out, I could open the LH one and, since it is not leaking, however much came out of it is what I could put back in it, and same for RH. I do know my front suspension has been upgraded with RaceTech internal parts. Could try the actual SealMate and bring fluid level back to correct and see what happens. Or - is there a way to unload the front end using rear ballast and the center stand, then pull the fork top caps and actually measure the fluid height from the top on the good side, and make the other equal? Just thinking out loud. Trying not to spend the time / $ to pull the forks again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stlburd2
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top