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Discussion Starter #21
The problem, for me at least, is that I've never experienced nor heard of exactly this issue on any bike so I don't know where to start. I don't currently have the service manual or I would be able to find a starting point at least and assist. The service manual has troubleshooting info for a great many issues that can happen and I'm sure it would have something that at least relates to a similar problem for somewhere to start. The SM also shows how to test all the sensors. This issue is just so unique in my experience.

From your last post (17) I would say that your oil pressure sensor is possibly fine. Normal for the light to go out when the engine starts and turn on again when it stops. At least as long as it doesn't go out just before the engine stops (which you stated it does not and your video indicates normal for that).

I hesitate to say this but it is possible there is a problem with the ECU that cannot be reset by the normal process (battery disconnect and reconnect). I say "hesitate" 'cuz that's an expensive item. But if that's what it is you'd have to pay the parts price for it regardless if you let the dealer replace it or you replace it. The big difference there is the dealer will charge you all that extra for plastic removal and troubleshooting. Again, the SM does have procedures to test much of the ECU functions I think.
also i agree on the oil pressure switch diag opinion,,, it turns on and goes out,,, also the kick stand switch is good,,, clutch switch is good,,, i REALLLY would like to know the pin out for the fuel pump,,, i would like to jump it ON and see if it continues to run,,, do u see any info on that,,,? thank you
 

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Without the service manual I don't have that information. For the test processes you ask about nor the pin out of the fuel pump. The SM has electrical diagrams. There is a diagnostic plug in the center under the seat but that is most useful with the proper equipment to plug into it. There is a process of shorting some pins in that plug and reading an indication on the LCD panel that a member here mentioned many years ago but I haven't located that currently (or maybe I'm thinking of a few other bikes I've owned that can do that). That plug is the only RED plug next to the frame center cross bar under the seat.

I did show where the neutral switch is located in my post 11 above, but I don't know about a neutral sensor other than that the transmission signals the switch when it is in neutral. I would think that the best test is with the ignition on (bike running or not) if the transmission is in neutral the neutral light is on and when you shift it into 1st or 2nd gear the light goes out... and then comes on again when you shift back into neutral. I highly doubt that if the light/switch is functioning like this that there would be any impact on the bike running or not running. It's just a switch to a light on the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
BIG NEWS: !!!! my neutral indicator is gone on my dash EVEN when im in Neutral .... do you have the location and pin out of the neutral indicator...?
 

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As I've said, the location of the Neutral switch is located on the right side of the engine just below the right cylinders. See post 11 in this thread!
I don't have the pin out of that switch but @troystg has posted a link to his service manual PDF on his Google Drive storage space and you should be able to see the electrical diagrams from that, and the pin out of the switch. Using that information you can test the function of the light by putting a signal to the correct pin to see if the light shows up or if it is faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
As I've said, the location of the Neutral switch is located on the right side of the engine just below the right cylinders. See post 11 in this thread!
I don't have the pin out of that switch but @troystg has posted a link to his service manual PDF on his Google Drive storage space and you should be able to see the electrical diagrams from that, and the pin out of the switch. Using that information you can test the function of the light by putting a signal to the correct pin to see if the light shows up or if it is faulty.
Bob,,, ,,, i doubted you when it was posted,,, I looked and seen ONE wire there and felt as if it was the Oil Pressure switch,,,, there is a sensor way in the back rear of the transmission, I assumed that 3 wire sensor was really the sensor,,,,, i will investigate it now :) my mistake
 

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Id say if you don't like the pace of diagnostic from a free resource, then take the plastics off yourself and trailer / back of a truck the MC over to the dealer. Pay the $100 diag fee and then repair it yourself. If you havent already grabbed the service manual .. you should. Service Manual PDF

my .002 worth .. I'd say you are on the right path for the neutral sensor (not the ECU).
 

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Bob,,, ,,, i doubted you when it was posted,,, I looked and seen ONE wire there and felt as if it was the Oil Pressure switch,,,, there is a sensor way in the back rear of the transmission, I assumed that 3 wire sensor was really the sensor,,,,, i will investigate it now :) my mistake
No worries.
I double checked the link of the parts breakout I posted and the oil pressure switch is also shown in that diagram as item 9. That one is located on top of the top crank case half in the valley between cylinders! So both are shown there.

I did some more checking at that web site and found that there is a switch with multiple wires on the right lower part of the crank case rear cover (rear of engine). It would be to the right side of the bike from the oil filter below the final shaft bearing. It's labeled as the speed sensor assembly and is item 11 at this link:
2014 Honda CTX1300 AC REAR CRANKCASE COVER | CyclePartsNation Honda Parts Nation
Could that be what you are finding?
 

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Hope I did this correctly. NEUTRAL SWITCH REMOVAL/INSTALLATION Open the rubber cap (1 ). Remove the neutral switch terminal nut (2) and neutral switch wire terminal. Remove the neutral switch and sealing washer (3). Installation is in the reverse order of removal. TORQUE: Neutral switch: . 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 9 lbMt) Neutral switch terminal nut: 1.7 N·m (0.2 kgf·m, 1.3 lbMt) NOTE: • Replace the sealing washer with a new one. INSPECTION Remove the neutral switch terminal nut and neutral switch wire terminal (page 20-24 ). Shift the transmission into neutral. Check for continuity between the neutral switch terminal (1] and ground. There should be continuity with the transmission in neutral, and no continuity when the transmission is in gear.
 

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is there someone close to old mate that could lend him a ecu just to try it out. I had a cbr600 that the neutral light wouldn’t come on and wouldn’t start unless the clutch was pulled in,let the clutch out and it would stall even though it was in neutral. unbolted The switch and cleaned it and was All systems go
 

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Discussion Starter #30
It threw a code ONCE yesterday -
One long and 2 shorts,,,,
IF you look through my first posts i believe it could be the issue is my voltage regulator is letting the voltage go way high....
- When all of this first started I put the bike on a " charger " --- a crappy battery tender that smells like burnt plastic now,, i think it overcharged my battery and blew my regulator ,,
Then this started,,,
and the code says MAP voltage to " high " - i think this is just the symptom of spiking voltage at startup
when i leave a voltmeter on the bike and start it the voltage goes from 13.1 sky high till anywhere from 13.9 to sometime 15v then bike shuts off,,,
i suspect the meter is not fast enough to catch it going way high before bike shuts off,,,,
I believe the charger damaged my voltage regulator and need to ohm it out,,,,,, anyone know where its located ;))))
 

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the regulator is on the backside of the alternator.
I've send you a PM about the service manual.


Schermafbeelding 2020-08-26 om 23.15.23.png

45810

45811
 

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BIG NEWS: !!!! my neutral indicator is gone on my dash EVEN when im in Neutral
Does anyone you have the location and pin out of the neutral indicator...?....


Ctx 1300 starts perfect, then shuts off after 3 seconds ???? Got half tank of gas,,,
Does it even when stand is up,
Parked it 3 days ago and it ran perfect
Been a flawless bike for 7 k miles,,,,
While running there is no error lights,,,
Help ,,,,,,,
sounds like possibly a fuel pump relay. you get your 3 second prime and then relay shuts down. common on cars . honda also likes using a main relay
 

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Discussion Starter #33
sounds like possibly a fuel pump relay. you get your 3 second prime and then relay shuts down. common on cars . honda also likes using a main relay
I have rotated the 3 relays that are all the same,,, putting the fan relay in place of the fuel pump relay.... even jumper-ed the fuel pump to keep it running,,,, no change in issue but thank you...

ALSO
I noticed that the check engine light returns a 12,,, that is One long and 2 short flashes ....?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
ALSO
I noticed that the check engine light returns a 12,,, that is One long and 2 short flashes ....?
NOT sure how to read the below,,, it SEEMS like the 12 code is in the - engine runs normal - code,,,, lol wtf ;)))
IF im reading between the periods correctly,,,/
Does anyone know what the one long abd 2 short blinks after engine shuts off points to,,,?
PS where is the MAP sensor ?
I now have all plastic off so im ready :))

---------------------------------- Below from a post here
If not using the MCS, perform all inspections according to the relevant main code.
OTC Function Failure Symptom/Fail-safe function Refer to
MAP sensor circuit low voltage (less than 0.2 V) . Engine operates normally 4-11 1-1 . MAP sensor or its circuit malfunction
MAP sensor circuit high voltage (more than 3.9 V) . Engine operates normally
1-2 . Loose or poor contact of the MAP sensor connector 4-12 . MAP sensor or its circuit malfunction
MAP sensor performance problem . Engine operates normally
2-1 . Loose or poor connection of the MAP sensor vacuum 4-14
hose . MAP sensor malfunction
ECT sensor circuit low voltage (less than 0.07 V) . Hard start at a low temperature
7-1 . ECT sensor or its circuit malfunction . Pre-program value: 90°C/194 °F 4-15 . Cooling fan turns on
4-9
 

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also i agree on the oil pressure switch diag opinion,,, it turns on and goes out,,, also the kick stand switch is good,,, clutch switch is good,,, i REALLLY would like to know the pin out for the fuel pump,,, i would like to jump it ON and see if it continues to run,,, do u see any info on that,,,? thank you
you can download manual on ebay for 20 dollars
 

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also i agree on the oil pressure switch diag opinion,,, it turns on and goes out,,, also the kick stand switch is good,,, clutch switch is good,,, i REALLLY would like to know the pin out for the fuel pump,,, i would like to jump it ON and see if it continues to run,,, do u see any info on that,,,? thank you
code 12 is fuel injector circut. I think I would be looking around battery and fuse block for issues. check all fuses with test light and relays
 

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My brother had similar issues on his 2009 GoldWing when the tip sensor got unhooked inadvertently. The bike would do exactly what your Youtube video shows. I saw this video of a Kawasaki with the same issue on Youtube.
 

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Lookig for code 12 it looks like a fuel injector problem.

Schermafbeelding 2020-08-30 om 23.38.08.png
Schermafbeelding 2020-08-30 om 23.39.36.png
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Found the Cause - MICE :
I am the person that has the CTX1300 that was running 3 seconds then cutting off,,, well MICE built a home in my bike in just 1 week parked in my garage,,, i have no injector firing in FI 1, even after repairing wires up and clearing the DTC codes,
- performed continuity tests on ALL FI wires and MAP sensor back to ECU after repairs,,, all wires good now,,,,
FI 1 Harness plug will NOT fire the fuel injector oncylender 1 or any cylinder, i believe there is no signal coming down the pink wire on FI 1 plug harness ,,
  • when i switch plug with ( FI 2 harness plug ) for a second the injector for Cylinder 1 it will fire cylender 1s injector telling me injector for cylinder 1 is good .its good
  • BUT when placing FI 1 harness plug on cylinder 2 injector it does not fire,,
( no injector on any cylinders will fire off ( FI 1 harness wire plug ) even after all wires repaired,,,)
- battery voltage on Black wire good, signal wire has good continuity back to ECU on ( FI 1 harness plug)
  • i believe the constant 12v shorted to the ECU at signal wire for ( FI 1 ) frying the ECU,
  • I ordered a ECU -
- MAP 12 code comes back as soon as the bike is started and the bike shuts straight off,, 1 long and 2 short is the ONLY code im getting now,,,
Bike ONLY runs - and not bad - when diag jumper is in place - ( pipe for cylinder not hot )

  • I created a test lead with pin and i measured a good ground on pin 1 and good 5v on MAP sensor pin 3, when bike running -
  • I have 2.0 volts on middle wire of map sensor and it fluctuates well from 2v to 3.2v when i rev the bike gently-
( also verified good signals back to ECU for all wires for MAP sensor ) they were not damaged -
  • if i unplug the map sensor in diag mode the bike almost dies so i believe the MAP sensor is doing its job,
  • I believe the map sensor is Good and this flashing 12 code is yet another symptom of a fried ECU due to shorted battery voltage sent up FI 1 plug wires , and FI 2 injector plug wires,,,
    45824
 
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