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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We are all aware of the handle bar shutter. Well...in an attempt to improve upon the inadequate mirror situation, I thought I'd try a pair of bar end mirrors. In order to install the mirrors I had to remove the bar end weights. I rode around for a few days to decide if I liked the mirrors or not. I came to the conclusion that the mirrors weren't the answer. However... in the process I couldn't help but notice the improvement in the bar rattle situation. I will not be reinstalling them. If the bar rattle bothers you...give it a shot...works for me!
 

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Word is (and it may even have been from somebody here in the forum) that the bar ends are specifically weighted to eliminate engine vibration in the hands, not road vibration. They may not have ever given a thought to the possibility that they'd increase the jarring action over bigger bumps. Who knows how those propellerheads come up with half the crap they do.
 

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Very interesting discovery with removing the weight from the end of the bars...and when you think about arm X moment it makes sense.

I am one of those kind of riders that sort of adjusts to the bikes idiosyncrasies, and although I notice the effects, I look at it as my getting used to being on the bike after a long winter. After a while, my muscles or something builds the strength at certain locations, and I find it never really bothers me again.

Several years ago, my riding buddies had our first ride of the season the first week of April. We rode about 100 miles and stopped at a lake resort...whereby the fatigue was insane. We rode home and my friend on his BMW K1200Gt could barely climb off his bike, he was that twisted/sore/fatigued that I started thinking we were getting WAY too old for this recreation. In October, we went on a 450 mile ride for the day, and I distinctly remember both of us not having a problem at all with the ride. Strangely strange, huh?

Anyway, I may experiment sometime this summer with removing the handlebar weights, and get a good feel for any improvement. If so, I will get some lightweight aluminum end caps to put in place. Thanks for the post!
 

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One of my dislikes about the CTX1300, is after 20 minutes or so, my right hand is numb, and I have to let go of the throttle and shake the feeling back into it. I've been riding for over 40 years, and of all my motorcycles (even my Harley Low Rider), I've never had this problem before.

Does anyone have any recommendations for better vibration absorbing grips? I've changed my gloves to a thicker set, and though that helped somewhat, it hasn't solved the problem. This is a real annoyance on long rides.

Thank you.
 

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One of my dislikes about the CTX1300, is after 20 minutes or so, my right hand is numb, and I have to let go of the throttle and shake the feeling back into it. I've been riding for over 40 years, and of all my motorcycles (even my Harley Low Rider), I've never had this problem before.

Does anyone have any recommendations for better vibration absorbing grips? I've changed my gloves to a thicker set, and though that helped somewhat, it hasn't solved the problem. This is a real annoyance on long rides.

Thank you.
Something like a Throttle Boss or other similar type of palm rest is what I always recommend. I love the Kury ISO grips on this bike -- they're much bigger around than the stockers, and combined with the Throttle Boss, my grip is relaxed enough that I never get any right hand fatigue.
 

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Something like a Throttle Boss or other similar type of palm rest is what I always recommend. I love the Kury ISO grips on this bike -- they're much bigger around than the stockers, and combined with the Throttle Boss, my grip is relaxed enough that I never get any right hand fatigue.
I fitted the foam outer grip covers and cut them to length just makes the original grips a shade bigger
 

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First time I rode a CTX demo machine, BANG BANG BANG went the bars over the slightest bump. Are you kidding? :eek:

Second time I rode a CTX demo machine, HMMMM HMMMM HMMM. All was well. :smiley-happy0034:

I did not notice the mileage on either one.

Picked up mine last week. Had the dealer replace the fork oil with 5w. One mile on the odometer. HMMMM HMMMM HMMM. All is very well now. :D
 

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We are all aware of the handle bar shutter. Well...in an attempt to improve upon the inadequate mirror situation, I thought I'd try a pair of bar end mirrors. In order to install the mirrors I had to remove the bar end weights. I rode around for a few days to decide if I liked the mirrors or not. I came to the conclusion that the mirrors weren't the answer. However... in the process I couldn't help but notice the improvement in the bar rattle situation. I will not be reinstalling them. If the bar rattle bothers you...give it a shot...works for me!
There is a thought... the bars are long and the rider puts little weight on them.. so it may be a "tuning fork" for road pings.
I had my dealer adjust my bars for a little more forward weight, and even the slappy hands improved a lot. But im going to think about those weights!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Word is (and it may even have been from somebody here in the forum) that the bar ends are specifically weighted to eliminate engine vibration in the hands, not road vibration. They may not have ever given a thought to the possibility that they'd increase the jarring action over bigger bumps. Who knows how those propellerheads come up with half the crap they do.
You're right Bear, about the weights dampening the engine vibes. There is a bit more of that now with the weights gone, however...for me, it is a worthwhile trade off. Didn't even notice until you mentioned it.
Very interesting discovery with removing the weight from the end of the bars...and when you think about arm X moment it makes sense.

I am one of those kind of riders that sort of adjusts to the bikes idiosyncrasies, and although I notice the effects, I look at it as my getting used to being on the bike after a long winter. After a while, my muscles or something builds the strength at certain locations, and I find it never really bothers me again.

Several years ago, my riding buddies had our first ride of the season the first week of April. We rode about 100 miles and stopped at a lake resort...whereby the fatigue was insane. We rode home and my friend on his BMW K1200Gt could barely climb off his bike, he was that twisted/sore/fatigued that I started thinking we were getting WAY too old for this recreation. In October, we went on a 450 mile ride for the day, and I distinctly remember both of us not having a problem at all with the ride. Strangely strange, huh?

Anyway, I may experiment sometime this summer with removing the handlebar weights, and get a good feel for any improvement. If so, I will get some lightweight aluminum end caps to put in place. Thanks for the post!
Not only did I remove the weights...I also removed the hardware inside of the bars that secure the weights in place (also a considerable amount of weight). It took some soapy water and the allen bolt that secures the weight. Worked it back and forth until it slid out.

One of my dislikes about the CTX1300, is after 20 minutes or so, my right hand is numb, and I have to let go of the throttle and shake the feeling back into it. I've been riding for over 40 years, and of all my motorcycles (even my Harley Low Rider), I've never had this problem before.
Does anyone have any recommendations for better vibration absorbing grips? I've changed my gloves to a thicker set, and though that helped somewhat, it hasn't solved the problem. This is a real annoyance on long rides.
Thank you.
It seems as though the spring tension on the throttle needs to be a little lighter. Next time I have the tupperware off I'm gonna take a wind off of the return spring. I did that same thing to my former FJR with good results.
What I have done up to this point is put on a throttle rocker and a throttle lock that cost $30 for both at Cycle Gear.
The Rocker extends the time that it takes for the hand/wrist to get fatigued. At that point I set the throttle lock and ride left handed while the right hand recovers.
=richroiz;91169]There is a thought... the bars are long and the rider puts little weight on them.. so it may be a "tuning fork" for road pings.
I had my dealer adjust my bars for a little more forward weight, and even the slappy hands improved a lot. But im going to think about those weights![/quote]
For the full effect...snatch the bar weight hardware out of the bars as well. Lube it up...install the allen bolt and work it back and forth till it slides out.
 

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Did you like it?
I am new here. What are the handlebar weights?
Would you recommend removing them?
I just got my brand new CTX1300 Deluxe last October.
So far the only problem I have is that the side mirrors views are obstructed by the handlebar and everything that's mounted on it.
As a result, the side-mirrors are almost useless.
Any suggestions on that?
 

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It's easy enough to "adjust" the bars and the clutch and brake reservoirs yourself,I did mine no problems,and you can fine tune the bars in your own time.
Cheers Melv
 

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It's easy enough to "adjust" the bars and the clutch and brake reservoirs yourself,I did mine no problems,and you can fine tune the bars in your own time.
Cheers Melv
My dealer did mine at end of a maintenance.. sat me on the bike and did all the adjustments... no charge
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did you like it?
I am new here. What are the handlebar weights?
Would you recommend removing them?
I just got my brand new CTX1300 Deluxe last October.
So far the only problem I have is that the side mirrors views are obstructed by the handlebar and everything that's mounted on it.
As a result, the side-mirrors are almost useless.
Any suggestions on that?
The "Bar end Weights" are located at the "ends of the handlebars". They are held in place with an "Allen bolt". To remove them or not is solely up to you. If the violent reverberating vibration felt at the grips, as a result of riding on a rough road surface concerns you, this is a solution.
As a result of removing the bar end weights, I do not see the need for any other considerations. Changing the fork oil to a lighter weight, re-valving the forks and any other mods are (in my opinion ) moot.
I went for a 75 mile ride today and paid close attention to the feel of the bike. I purposely rode on old back roads that were less than smooth. With the bars not rattling on every bump, the working of the suspension up front could be appreciated. It was doing its intended job. In the past, the rattling of the bars hid that fact.
Here's a couple of pics.

This is what secures the bar end weight to the handlebar. To remove it, thread the allen bolt (minus the weight) into the securing device and work it back and forth until it slides out. Some soapy water will expedite the matter.



In this pic you can see that I replaced the stock grips with a larger diameter cushion type grip. The larger diameter helps with the "Jerky Throttle" situation. Also in the pic are mirrors that I mounted in the perch on the switch gear housing. I gave up on the stock fairing mounted mirrors.



This really does eliminate most of the "Rattle" situation. If you try this and it isn't all that you expected, it is easily reversed back to original.

Good Luck...

FS
 

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FatStrat thanks for the pics

I had unbolted the bar end weights in preparation for a road test but seeing your pics shows me how much more weight is inside the bar ends because of the mounts.

I'm using those same dual sport ProGrips (have been using them on several of my past bikes) and had cut the ends off to accommodate the bar ends. Now you've reminded me that just replacing them with the ends intact would be an easy way to cap off the open ends of the handlebars.

Mahalo!
Huladog
 

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Did the road test without the bar end weights only

Finally managed to get out and road test with just the bar ends removed (left the the mounts inside the bars).

Just my impressions, you guys may have different experiences. Feels like the engine vibrations are more pronounced in the grips without the bar end weights. More buzzyness around 3,500 RPM giving my hands that tingling feeling when I stopped to rest. I remember that feeling, from previous bikes and didn't realize it was missing from riding the stock CTX.

If you're running the thicker Kuryakyn grips you may not notice the vibes. I'm using lighter Pro Grip dual sport gel grips which are thinner.

I put the bar end weights back on to smooth out the tingling feeling again.

Aloha,
Huladog
 

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I removed the weights as well - solved all the front end finger breaking harmonic handle bar vibration problem as well !
 
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I've never noticed any of these complaints, which I find surprising.
I wonder why?

I did add grip puppies over the heated OEM grips and I wear decent leather gloves but I wouldn't call them anything special.
No issues with numbness on the right hand or anything.

Cruise control would be a welcome addition if it came from the factory.

My dealer is trying to get me to trade in the CTX on a 2014 GW. Its $5k off right now but due to the Honda rebates or factory cash on the CTX, my bike is worth much less now. (Thanks Honda).

They have a NEW 2014 Blue 1300basic they cannot move. It's sitting there at $12k.
 

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hey guys i am a newby and how do you take the end weight off just take a allen wrentch and remove them? i no it sound dumb but if you dont know ask?
 
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