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My next long-term project is to see if I can replace the handlebars. I'm looking for a little less sweep so that my wrists are straighter rather than bent. The arena of handlebar dimensions is a swamp with little standardization. Using the Renthal standard, here is what I get in inches:
width: 30.5
height: 13
rise: 7
clamp area: 4.5
sweep: 7.5
control length: 9

In my opinion the sweep is huge but some of it (not all of it) is needed so the master cylinders don't hit the fairing when fully turned. Can you more technically inclined verify my measurements? My plan is to go with a 7/8 bar and then shim where necessary.
 

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If you can manage to get rid of the horrible wrist angle on the stock bars that would be SUCH a vast ergonomic improvement for us long distance riders.
 

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That bad wrist angle is really a result of the riders grip. I am guessing many riders, here and on other bikes, tend to hold the grips same as holding a baseball bat... with the wrists almost straight out from the grip. I've read the definitions of tennis elbow and golfers elbow and both state that as one of the causes. I don't hold my grips that way but instead more like a golfer with a proper overlap hold on the club. The handlebar grips run out under the heal of my palm at an angle rather than trying to make it straight across the fingers, so my wrists remain straight with my arms. I don't have any wrist issues with the grips as they are as a result. I also don't hold the grips tightly but use a rather loose hold to be more relaxed (I'm sure most experienced riders do this part as well). But I can easily see if you prefer the batter's hold on the grips that you would have issues. My ST was not quite but almost the same as were my previous 2 bikes to that one. Therein lies another of the differences that make up riders.
Hope you guys find a way to fix the grips to your liking.

As to using a standard bar with spacers or sleeves or shims... I suppose that would work. The reservoir clamps are at 1" and the bar clamps are at 1-1/8" so plan accordingly. I agree about the sweep from the bar clamps being needed. Maybe you can find a bar with a similar sweep but with the grip ends bent out more to your liking.
 

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WELL that means I have been riding 43 years and over 1,000,000 miles holding my handlebars wrong. This is the only bike setup that has caused nerve pain after a long ride. now granted my definition of a long ride is several thousand miles. But still NEVER had my wrists angled as bad as they are on this bike. I rented an older wing to go for a weekend long ride last weekend and covered over 850 miles and NOT a peep of pain out of my fore arms or wrists.

Besides I aint golfing,, I am riding a motorcycle. .. I would think that if you are using a open loose grip would be interesting to see what would happen in a mandatory maximum performance stop . Not sure I would pass someone taking my MSF course maintaining a grip like that
 

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Didn't say my grip was open, just not tight. I personally know of more than a few novice riders do grip so tight that their knuckles turn white. They, especially, need to relax a bit. In a panic stop or mandatory performance stop my grip tightens right up real fast, but controlled and yet not a white knuckled panic grip. A firm grip, yet relaxed. My thumb is still around the bottom of the grip, not just hanging there limp. All my fingers are around the top and front of the grip or, if warranted, at least two fingers if not all are on the levers. I did have a very good instructor in my refresher MSF course and he considered me one of the examples to follow for the other students for being in control at all times.

I also didn't say your grip was wrong, just different than mine. And that would explain why the pain and need to change the grip ends of the bars to more compliment your grip.
 

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I added the spongy grips,, they helped some as they allowed me to keep my wrist a bit more in line with my fore arms,, but still requires an odd bend at the wrist.. and I had nearly the same problem with my ST1300,, but that was an easier fix I just threw the stock bars in the trash and installed a set of bars from an old wing I had laying around... most of the other st riders liked it enough to do similar mods to theirs.. But we are all iron butt riders
 

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That bad wrist angle is really a result of the riders grip. I am guessing many riders, here and on other bikes, tend to hold the grips same as holding a baseball bat... with the wrists almost straight out from the grip. I've read the definitions of tennis elbow and golfers elbow and both state that as one of the causes. I don't hold my grips that way but instead more like a golfer with a proper overlap hold on the club. The handlebar grips run out under the heal of my palm at an angle rather than trying to make it straight across the fingers, so my wrists remain straight with my arms. I don't have any wrist issues with the grips as they are as a result. I also don't hold the grips tightly but use a rather loose hold to be more relaxed (I'm sure most experienced riders do this part as well). But I can easily see if you prefer the batter's hold on the grips that you would have issues. My ST was not quite but almost the same as were my previous 2 bikes to that one. Therein lies another of the differences that make up riders.
Hope you guys find a way to fix the grips to your liking.

As to using a standard bar with spacers or sleeves or shims... I suppose that would work. The reservoir clamps are at 1" and the bar clamps are at 1-1/8" so plan accordingly. I agree about the sweep from the bar clamps being needed. Maybe you can find a bar with a similar sweep but with the grip ends bent out more to your liking.
Sorry I took the highlighted statements as an insulation as to lack of experience on my part. definitely not applicable
 

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Sorry about the poor choice of wording.
I was referring to the terms used by others here that the stock handlebars cause a "bad angle" at the wrists.
I was also, at the other highlighted words, referring to the point that most experienced riders don't "white knuckle" their hold on the grips as some novices do. This will also cause issues with the wrists and elbows regardless of the type of hold used. As to your hold on the grips... it is likely different than mine as I did mention. Perhaps more of a batters hold than a golf club or tennis racket hold. And yes, the grips on these bars are at a bit more swept back angle than many other bikes. A bobber would require more of a batters hold. Many touring bikes I've sat on seem to lend themselves to more of a golf club/tennis racket hold to some degree. The CTX1300 is a bit more of the latter than most.
 

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I have found that the "golf grip" works better for me as well.
learned this when long distance driving on my Goldwing. looser is better for me. tighten up when needed.
I can ride my bike 200 miles non stop without wrist fatigue. and I use the "grip puppies"
good luck with your efforts reducing pain in any way makes riding more enjoyable.


John
 

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Has anyone successfully replaces the bars with something a bit more "standard?"
 

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Seems like the grip part of the bar could be bent a few degrees to aid with comfort.
 

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Also the Rox riser may improve the comfort and it's easy to install and remove.
 

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I purchased a spare handlebar (CTX1300) on e-bay and am going to attempt to modify it. If it works as expected, I will post the results.
I agree with bending the ends a few degrees. It would make the bars a lot more comfortable.
 

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OK, following up on bending the spare handlebar. I ended up bending them a total of 3.5 inches end to end. Have not taken the bike out for a ride with the modified bars yet. Just sitting on the bike in the garage, they feel better and I have much less obstruction of the mirrors than before. After I try this set-up, I may try a second bend of maybe an inch or two. Will post a review in a few days!
 

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Let us know how it goes and make sure you post pictures. I have a feeling you may end up selling a bunch of modified handlebars. I for one, would take one.
 

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I put these from ROX MADE A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE 1 1/2" Barback Risers for 1 1/8" Handlebar
3R-B17R-15G . Easy to install.
1) Please explain, for a newbie at motorcycles generally, what you are getting out of the risers. Does it just make them higher, or also bring them back further because of the rake?

2) What specific problem are you trying to address? Are you small of stature or the reverse?

For context, I'm 6'2" w/ a long torso and for me the bars seem to come back too far. I never had the jumpy throttle experience on my Shadow during the six months that I owned it. Some of the CTX's issues are definitely caused by the throttle setup itself, but is some of it because the bars come back too far?

pete
 

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with these you can put them on and bring the bars back 1.50'' and up 1.250'' if i remember right . i just used them in reverse. dropped them and brought them closer . if you go to rox web sight it will tell you more about them
 

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Updating my previous post, I ended up making several small bends with a final dimension of 25 inches and to end. I can now use the factory mirrors with virtually no obstructions. The hand position is also improved and I feel much less wind which is nice with the cooler weather. Overall a much more comfortable ride. Will follow up with pictures later.
 
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