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Handlebar shudder

509 Views 13 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Gregory Tubbs
New owner of a CTX
Riding the bike home I felt a shudder several times through the bars
And advice on this sit for a fix?
Another site suggested removing bar ends and 20W fork oil??
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Is it a shudder or just a lot of vibration at times?

First time I test rode my Gold Wing I was coming off a Vulcan 750 and the very first few miles I felt a LOT of handlebar shudder almost to the point of a severe tank slapper. I learned that was due to me having no experience with such a big heavy bike. After the first day I never felt that again. Sometimes, in a used bike, that could be from loose or worn steering head nut or bearings. Tightening the steering head nut will eliminate this if it is even slightly loose.

If it is vibration, like from hitting pot holes or significant bumps and irregularities in the road, then that would be reduced (not eliminated) by removing the bar end weights. But then you'd feel the constant vibrations from the engine. It's either one or the other. Some riders prefer the engine vibes over the road bump vibes. Maybe just replace the stock bar end weights with slightly lighter ones. Someone here did that with good results. I just waited until the first 8000 miles were done on my new CTX and that almost went away as the front forks broke in... or maybe I just got used to it. I had a ST1100 just before my CTX and the front end felt the same on both those bikes to me.

Another member here has owned 2 CTX1300 bikes at the same time and reported that one was much better than the other. So there is known to be some variance between one bike and another within the series.

Many of the parts on this bike, especially the engine and transmission, are taken right off the ST1300. That ST was in the Honda lineup from 2002 until 2012 and showed many of the very same pros and cons of the CTX1300 as a result. A rather rough front end, twitchy throttle at lower speeds, bullet proof engine and strong power, etc.
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Is it a shudder or just a lot of vibration at times?

First time I test rode my Gold Wing I was coming off a Vulcan 750 and the very first few miles I felt a LOT of handlebar shudder almost to the point of a severe tank slapper. I learned that was due to me having no experience with such a big heavy bike. After the first day I never felt that again. Sometimes, in a used bike, that could be from loose or worn steering head nut or bearings. Tightening the steering head nut will eliminate this if it is even slightly loose.

If it is vibration, like from hitting pot holes or significant bumps and irregularities in the road, then that would be reduced (not eliminated) by removing the bar end weights. But then you'd feel the constant vibrations from the engine. It's either one or the other. Some riders prefer the engine vibes over the road bump vibes. Maybe just replace the stock bar end weights with slightly lighter ones. Someone here did that with good results. I just waited until the first 8000 miles were done on my new CTX and that almost went away as the front forks broke in... or maybe I just got used to it. I had a ST1100 just before my CTX and the front end felt the same on both those bikes to me.

Another member here has owned 2 CTX1300 bikes at the same time and reported that one was much better than the other. So there is known to be some variance between one bike and another within the series.

Many of the parts on this bike, especially the engine and transmission, are taken right off the ST1300. That ST was in the Honda lineup from 2002 until 2012 and showed many of the very same pros and cons of the CTX1300 as a result. A rather rough front end, twitchy throttle at lower speeds, bullet proof engine and strong power, etc.
I will try lighter bar end
To your question
It , to mr is a shudder
Bars shake somewhat violently depending on side of hole
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I will try lighter bar end
To your question
It , to mr is a shudder
Bars shake somewhat violently depending on side of hole
There has been some controversy about my claim, but...
I changed to a 20 series battery which is 7 pounds heavier than the original 16 size. The 20 series was cheaper and a higher CCA rating. Yes, it does make the bike more top heavy, but not so much as to ruin the handling. In fact, I like it better.
An unexpected side effect was the jolts felt in the bars on bumps was reduced to the point that hard bumps over those railroad tracks felt like a minor rumble.
Take it however you want, but the battery box has the dimensions to hold a 20 series battery with the spacer removed. Is that some crazy coincidence that all three dimensions are a fit for the larger battery? Could be, but highly unlikely. 7 extra pounds sitting on the edge of the fairing is a big difference, and I believe it was swapped for a 16 series to reduce felt top heaviness. What can't be debated is the felt difference in ride.
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Lots of discussion on this forum about this issue. Search for bars or handlebars. [On a Harley forum, you'd get different results for bars. ;)]

I felt the shudder on my demo ride. I had the dealer put in 5W fork oil, based on advice here. Have never felt the shudder on my own machine. Later on, I replaced the bar end weights to match my new Kury grips.
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I replaced bar ends with Kury ISO Grip ends and I also replaced the throttle tube with a G2 throttle tamer. I also went the other way with a lithium battery that weighs next to nothing. I do feel it when hitting a pothole and when I have to replace the battery I want to try Greg's fix of a heavier one to see what happens.
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I removed bar ends and added Grip Puppies. I also ride all the time with a tank bag that has about 5-7 lbs in it. The bar harshness has been greatly reduced.
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Lots of discussion on this forum about this issue. Search for bars or handlebars. [On a Harley forum, you'd get different results for bars. ;)]

I felt the shudder on my demo ride. I had the dealer put in 5W fork oil, based on advice here. Have never felt the shudder on my own machine. Later on, I replaced the bar end weights to match my new Kury grips.
What oil is on shocks from factory?
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What oil is on shocks from factory?
10W in the forks
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10W in the forks
Ok


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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A "fix" for this was discussed years ago. The isolated ROX risers smoothed those jolts out and gives you some adjustment capability for handlebar positioning.
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A "fix" for this was discussed years ago. The isolated ROX risers smoothed those jolts out and gives you some adjustment capability for handlebar positioning.
And someone else posted how those ROX broke a bolt and damn near killed him. I wouldn't have a set.
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Hearsay.
Any accessory can be installed incorrectly or poorly.
My Personal experience: years of trouble free smooth riding.
Would I buy it again? Yes
Would I recommend it? Indeed.

Keith
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Hearsay.
Any accessory can be installed incorrectly or poorly.
My Personal experience: years of trouble free smooth riding.
Would I buy it again? Yes
Would I recommend it? Indeed.

Keith
Hearsay! Fair enough, I didn't include a link to the post so it's below. Now you can read it straight from the source along with photo. From hearsay to show and tell.
Why the bolt broke is moot in my opinion. The fact is there is only One (1) bolt holding the riser together. And if it fails you're suddenly up the creek and your paddle just broke.
I'm sure there's lots of satisfied customers using these risers, but I'm not impressed with a design that relies on a single bolt holding it together.

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