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instrument panel

6915 Views 23 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  bob
Anyone have more info on the instrument panel.
One thing that I cannot help but wonder is about the ambient temp indicator. Over on the ST-Owners forum there is a complaint sometimes that the temp gauge blanks out at +14*F. I see that cuz I'm on the Coldest Ride forum a lot and rank rather high in the standings for recorded cold rides.
I wonder if Honda fixed this gauge to read below that temp?
No specs given that I’ve found on that. Any other info would be nice to find out too.:)
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So your problem is that the CTX 1300 won't tell you how cold it is once its colder than 14*F? Can't you just check the weather on your phone before you leave or something? I just don't see how this problem is really fixable. Are you going to buy a new thermometer?

What's the coldest temperature you've ridden in? What kind of cold gear do you have?

I find this kind of a funny problem to have...
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That is the question about the ambient temp gauge. I don't know if the CTX will show colder temps. If they borrowed the temp gauge from the ST1300 same as they borrowed the engine, I hope they modified it too.
I ride all year long... as long as the roads I am on don't have slippery stuff on them (ice or packed snow). While riding all year is not anything unusual for those in southern states but I am in central Iowa. I have been on slushy roads but not intentionally (a surprise weather event that all the local weather and NWS missed) and ended up riding home from work very slowly in 2" of slush. Roads and air were warmer than freezing, about 37*F, but it snowed anyway (was supposed to be sunny all day and roads were clear in the morning). My coldest ride so far is -15.7*F. And that's not the coldest ride by a member of the ST-Owners group. My ST1100 does not have a temp gauge so I carry a portable one. It the new gauge doesn't show colder temps I will simply still carry, but it would be nice if I didn't have to. The ST1300 and other bikes that do have one blank out at +14*F. I am a participant in the Coldest Ride contest on the ST-Owners forums. I have Gerbing heated gloves since my hands are the only part of me in the direct wind. I have Tour Master gear from my neck to my boots otherwise and a full face helmet. My TM gear is the Flex jacket and Pant with insulated inserts and I also add thermal long johns, an extra insulated insert from my old Flex jacket and a fleece jacket when riding in really cold temps (below 10*F). I am usually almost too warm geared up this way until the temps drop below zero*F and still very comfy down to my coldest ride so far. I don't mind putting all the gear on if I can still ride. Worth it to me. But as I said, the roads I take must be clear so it's usually only my commute to work since I ride or drive that every day and can preview the road before I ride. It's actually safer then since most cagers really notice a motorcycle being out in the cold weather. it catches their attention and they usually stay farther away from my tail and get in the other lanes if possible even though I am keeping up with the traffic in my lane. :)
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I also ride in the cold as long as the roads are not iced. My biggest problem is usually my own driveway.

I've seen 14 on the Trophy, but I don't know if it will display any lower. We don't get the same cold in Kentucky you get in Iowa. We had a low of -4 one morning, but the roads were slick that day and the bikes stayed in the garage.

I rode my first GL1000 down to 6 degrees and my first ST1100 down to 4 degrees.
I also ride in the cold as long as the roads are not iced. My biggest problem is usually my own driveway.

I've seen 14 on the Trophy, but I don't know if it will display any lower. We don't get the same cold in Kentucky you get in Iowa. We had a low of -4 one morning, but the roads were slick that day and the bikes stayed in the garage.

I rode my first GL1000 down to 6 degrees and my first ST1100 down to 4 degrees.
You guys are nuts. I rode twice in the low 30's because I had to. Both times were on the '95 Shadow, which has zero protection from anything. Actually the second time may have been in the 20's. I don't know, but it seemed like it took about a week to get my core temp back up. Not for me, but more power to you guys if you enjoy it! :eek:
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I will send a note to Honda telling them when the thermo goes out at 14 dge. flash a message saying "TIME TO GO THE EF HOME!"
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But on my bike it should be recalibrated up to 40 deg. then flashing message.
I was able to ride in to work at -1 degree F this morning. The Trophy thermometer bounced between 0 and 1, but my thermometers at home and at work both claimed -1.

The digital speed indicator went blank, but all of my other readings were there.

I wished I hadn't done this when I got into a slick patch in one of the ridge cuts. One car was in the ditch, but I managed to pick my way around the worst of it. I stayed upright all the way to work. I'll drive the car tomorrow morning.

The Trophy has much better wind protection than what I expect on the CTX1300. But the lower center of gravity should make the CTX better in slick parking lots.
I'm thinking maybe this site needs a Frozen Buttcheeks Award, to be given out once a month to whoever rides in the coldest weather. Hopefully we get some Aussies on board by the time spring rolls around north of the equator so it can keep going all year long! :D

or ....

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If you can get that ice sculpture to me before it melts... :D
The coldest temperature I've ever driven a motorcycle in was -25*F,and that was way back in 1968 on a brand new Kawasaki 350 that I had just bought,and well BEFORE the introduction of heated clothing.And after that little experience,which I froze my frick and frack off,lol,I bought a snowmobile suit and used that til 1999 when I bought a set of Gerbing's electric clothing.[jacket liner,pants,socks,gloves,and a thermostat to regulate the heat] WOW!! What a difference.Since buyin that set,the coldest it's been around here is -8*F which was two just years ago,and I was out on my scooter.You should have seen the way people in the four wheelers were lookin at me.lol lol I can only imagine what they were sayin to themselves.lol

SO!!! This now brings up yet another question about the CTX.Electric clothing draws quite a bit of wattage from the electrical system.My T bird has a 45 Amp stator [540 watts] and can just about keep up with the required wattage needed to run the bike when my lectric clothing [165 watts] is plugged in.I have to turn off other accessories like my radio,radar detector and passin lights in order to keep up with the load so as to not over load and or damage the bikes electrical system.I also run a digital volt meter so I know exactly what's happenin with the system. So!!! Does anybody know what the CTX's stator out put is???? If not,you now have your home work assignment.lol lol Dave!!!
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OK!! I found the information I was lookin for.The CTX1300 uses a 50 Amp stator which puts out 600 watts of electrical power.In oher words,the system should be adequate enough to run most anything used on a motorcycle.Good job Honda!! Dave!!!
You guys might wanna mark the above information down cause ya know you'll be lookin to add accessories and wonder if the system can handle em or not.Regarding the lectric clothing,that would be one complete set.A second complete set for a passenger,if she was crazy enough to ride with ya in the cooooooooold temps,lol would be too much for the machine's electrical system. Dave!!!
Only items I would add that have a constant high draw is my Gerbing gloves. This bike may have less wind protection than my ST1100 (only a test ride will tell :D ) so I may revisit adding the vest. The ST1300 has an issue that is often talked about on the ST-Owners forums and that is the engine puts out a lot of heat on the legs (most of those riders haven't been on an air cooled v-twin). I wonder about the CTX13 if that will be the same issue since the knees will be right up to the rear of the heads. The ST13 has a bit more plastic around the engine so that will likely be a factor. I also note that there is an extra pad on the back side of the valve covers that may possibly be a thermal pad to mitigate some of that heat. Said all that to say that in colder weather there may be no need to add heated pant liners. The other even higher draw load I would have is my air horns, but those are very intermittent so never a problem. My ST1100 has a 40 amp alternator and I've had no problems with over load. Anyway, that's part of why I never connect anything powered to the bike using factory wires for power. Always install an isolated fuse box for all stuff I add. If I do blow a circuit the factory wiring is untouched.

BTW- did I mention my coldest ride THIS year so far is just below -14*F. Don't know that it will be any colder this season or not but it is a colder season than it has been in many years.
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Bob: The older Gerbing gloves,like the pair I have,only draw 22 watts of power.The newer gloves draw 44 watts.The same with the socks.The jacket liner is the BIG draw at 77 watts.The pants are only 44 watts.With the CTX,I'd say that all you'll probably need for cold weather riding,due to the fairing design,are the gloves and the socks.I say that because your legs may be warm from the motor,but your feet will still be exposed to cold air since they rest below the motor and on the pegs,plus,as you know,heat rises.It doesn't travel downward.lol And your hands will be on the outboard side of the fairing,so you're gonna get cold air there too.But with just those two items,totaling 88 watts at full power,you shouldn't have any problems what so ever with the charging system keeping up with the demand.But I would still go with the thermostat because,believe it or not, the gloves and socks will get pretty hot with 44 watts of heat and actually burn your skin.I know if my jacket is turned up high or all the way,I have to adjust the control down cause it gets too hot and makes me sweat which is not good in cold weather.But when I do that,my hands and feet start to get cold.Duh!! Sometimes ya just can't win for losin.lol lol Dave!!!
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I use Gerbing gloves and jacket liner with my 2013 CB1100 which is said to have a very minimal electrical output and have never had any trouble with over draw.

Also with full lower fairing bikes I think the heat escapes thru a small area near your legs, but without lower fairing the heat has a large area to dissipate, maybe not so hot on the legs?
I have the same situation with my ST1100 with the feet below the fairing and engine. My toes just start getting a little cold after riding for over 20 minutes in well below zero temps (good boots and socks). I only have the gloves now for the same reasons mentioned above... hands are beyond the fairing so are in the wind. The rest of me is shielded from direct wind and stays warm with all the layers I put on. I have the Gerbing variable controller for the gloves and wouldn't have anything else. It's wired into my isolated fuse box where I think I have a 5 amp fuse for it, or maybe only a 3 amp (I'll have to look again). I went with the fuse that came with the variable controller originally.

I was thinking with the more open design of the CTX the engine heat would not be a factor as much as with the ST. With the insulation in my riding pants I really don't notice any heat from the engine on my ST but it puts out less than the ST13.
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The directions that come with the Gerbing electric clothing tell ya to wire the thermostat directly to the battery terminals,which is what I have always done.Gerbing even supplies the fused two wire [black and red] connector lead with a male/female end on it to connect the power from the battery directly to the lead on the electric clothing itself.That way,you won't take power away from the circuit that is feeding power to a particular component which could damage it. Dave!!!
I do the same as Dave, going direct off the battery, its not like you can walk away from the bike leaving your jacket plugged in and draining the battery. I do try to wire my 12v accessory plug so it keys on and off.
My isolated fuse block is powered directly off the battery too, but provides an easy access location for all my fuses and connections while minimizing the number of connections on the battery terminals. It is also turned on/off with the bike by tapping the bike Aux connectors to trigger a relay for it.
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