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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Not sure what a small motorcycle battery would be amp wise, it would do with size of the wiring and the cells I guess.
Sounds like if you were using a small charger designed for the battery it wouldn't be a problem. Maybe the battery had a manufacturer issue.
 

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Not sure what a small motorcycle battery would be amp wise, it would do with size of the wiring and the cells I guess.
Sounds like if you were using a small charger designed for the battery it wouldn't be a problem. Maybe the battery had a manufacturer issue.
It could have been the battery. I noticed sometime later they had upgraded the battery with a low voltage cutoff circuit so it wouldn't drain completely. You had to manually reactivate it with a button on the battery.
 

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I carry a portable jumpstart and have a power port at the handlebars just in case.
I have one too. It didn't help with my original battery. It brought the voltage up right away, but I don't think the battery had the capacity to deliver the current needed anymore.
It worked fine helping someone jump start their car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I carry a portable jumpstart and have a power port at the handlebars just in case.
I've been considering getting one. Not sure the standard SAE cord 14-16ga like the one that comes with tender would care enough amperage on a dead battery, but i think the mini jumper cable (6-8 awg) that comes with them should.

What setup worked for you?
How dead was battery?
 

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2022 Matte Deep Blue Kymco AK 550
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The typical official Battery Tender cable with SAE connector is actually 18 ga wire. My dealer installed that on my AK when I bought it but even my Slime mini compressor that I carry on trips needs more. 18 ga might be big enough for at most 10 amps but that BT cable usually comes with a 7.5 amp fuse. I replaced it with a 16 ga cable with SAE and a 15 amp fuse so I can use my compressor (it instantly blows any fuse less than that). But that still is not big enough wire for a jump starter on any battery. I also carry a Battery Tender Jr when I travel and my mc specific jumper cable set.

Consider the main fuse from the battery in most bikes is at least 30 amp, sometimes more. A stranded 14 ga wire might work for a short time if the total run (round trip) is a very short 7 ft and only a 30 amp draw from positive, through the jump starter, to ground on the battery (3.5 ft out PLUS 3.5 ft back) but it might get rather warm. If a 40 amp fuse (I forget which the CTX has) then 12 ga wire minimum for a short total run, or better would be 10 ga wire for up to just over 15 ft total run (7.5 ft out from battery PLUS 7.5 ft back to battery). Best to just go with a 10 ga cable for the job. Car jumper cables are bigger wire, like 8 ga or even 6 ga, since more amps are involved and longer distance are likely (10-15 ft one way = 20-30 ft total run?). I have a 10 ft long (20 ft total run) set of auto jumper cables that are 8 ga and a 5 ft long (10 ft total run) set of mc specific jumper cables that are 10 ga. This is for 12 vdc systems, not household 110+ volt AC current.

Don't know if your 6-8 ga jumper cable that comes with a jump starter device is one that has ring connectors for a permanent connection to the battery. If not then getting a cable of 10-8 ga would be enough if a short cable and with a connector that is rated for 50-60 amps (just for a little extra capability) and inline fuse the same as the jump starter needs or same as the bike starter system uses.
 

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I've been considering getting one. Not sure the standard SAE cord 14-16ga like the one that comes with tender would care enough amperage on a dead battery, but i think the mini jumper cable (6-8 awg) that comes with them should.

What setup worked for you?
How dead was battery?
I put on a 10ga. With 30amp fuse..

YETOR SAE to O Ring Terminal Harness, with 15A Protection Fuse for Safety, 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug,SAE Battery Extension Cable with 2FT 10AWG for Motorcycle Cars. (60CM) https://a.co/d/fBjnExB

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The typical official Battery Tender cable with SAE connector is actually 18 ga wire. My dealer installed that on my AK when I bought it but even my Slime mini compressor that I carry on trips needs more. 18 ga might be big enough for at most 10 amps but that BT cable usually comes with a 7.5 amp fuse. I replaced it with a 16 ga cable with SAE and a 15 amp fuse so I can used my compressor (it instantly blows any fuse less than that). But that still is not big enough wire for a jump starter on any battery. I also carry a Battery Tender Jr when I travel and my mc specific jumper cable set.

Consider the main fuse from the battery in most bikes is at least 30 amp, sometimes more. A stranded 14 ga wire might work for a short time if the total run (round trip) is a very short 7 ft and only a 30 amp draw from positive, through the jump starter, to ground on the battery (3.5 ft out PLUS 3.5 ft back) but it might get rather warm. If a 40 amp fuse (I forget which the CTX has) then 12 ga wire minimum for a short total run, or better would be 10 ga wire for up to just over 15 ft total run (7.5 ft out from battery PLUS 7.5 ft back to battery). Best to just go with a 10 ga cable for the job. Car jumper cables are bigger wire, like 8 ga or even 6 ga, since more amps are involved and longer distance are likely (10-15 ft one way = 20-30 ft total run?). I have a 10 ft long (20 ft total run) set of auto jumper cables that are 8 ga and a 5 ft long (10 ft total run) set of mc specific jumper cables that are 10 ga. This is for 12 vdc systems, not household 110+ volt AC current.

Don't know if your 6-8 ga jumper cable that comes with a jump starter device is one that has ring connectors for a permanent connection to the battery. If not then getting a cable of 10-8 ga would be enough if a short cable and with a connector that is rated for 50-60 amps (just for a little extra capability) and inline fuse the same as the jump starter needs or same as the bike starter system uses.
Looks like NOCO offers plug in adapters to go from battery to SAE adapter to plug into the jump box directly. Seems like a good solution and allows use of anything SAE.
 

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I should have mentioned I bought this to go with it...

igreely EC5 Female Plug Connector to SAE Power Automotive Adapter Cable Wire 10AWG 12cm https://a.co/d/a0zU2yQ

And I plug this in while riding to keep my GPS(old phone) charged..

SAE to USB Adapter Motorcycle - Quick Disconnect Plug - Quick Charge 3.0 - Dual USB Ports to Charge 2 Devices - Powers Cell Phones, Tablets, GPS - Keep Connected While You Ride - 2 Year Guarantee https://a.co/d/0EKHsAh

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
 

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I guess I spoke too soon back in Aug when I bragged on my LI battery. Went out today to take a ride and had nothing/zero/zilch for power. Checked LI battery which read 2.63 volts. Not sure why but the instructions with the battery say to remove it from the vehicle before charging. So it’s out and on the trickle charger that came with it. Weird it says nothing about removing it to use the same trickle charger when the vehicle sits unused for long periods. We will see what happens. But it’s been in the bike since 9/2018 and never on the charger after the initial charge.
Automotive tire Tire Automotive tail & brake light Bumper Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I guess I spoke too soon back in Aug when I bragged on my LI battery. Went out today to take a ride and had nothing/zero/zilch for power. Checked LI battery which read 2.63 volts. Not sure why but the instructions with the battery say to remove it from the vehicle before charging. So it’s out and on the trickle charger that came with it. Weird it says nothing about removing it to use the same trickle charger when the vehicle sits unused for long periods. We will see what happens. But it’s been in the bike since 9/2018 and never on the charger after the initial charge. View attachment 48407
Let us know how the charge goes. Did you have any direct connection? The storage ability without charging is the most attractive part.
 

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I guess I spoke too soon back in Aug when I bragged on my LI battery. Went out today to take a ride and had nothing/zero/zilch for power. Checked LI battery which read 2.63 volts. Not sure why but the instructions with the battery say to remove it from the vehicle before charging. So it’s out and on the trickle charger that came with it. Weird it says nothing about removing it to use the same trickle charger when the vehicle sits unused for long periods. We will see what happens. But it’s been in the bike since 9/2018 and never on the charger after the initial charge. View attachment 48407
I've never measured the CTX to see how many amps are being drawn with the bike off. Every vehicle draws a little power when off, some more than others because of different modules always on.
It could be the output of the trickle charger can't keep up with the normal power drain and maintain the battery when the vehicle is off, depending on what vehicle that is.
 

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Had the LI battery it on the trickle charger it came with all night. Started at 2.63 volts ended just a bit ago at 13.30. Reinstalled and bike started right up. 14.32 at battery with bike running. Now for a ride to see if it stays or not. Don’t plan on stopping unless I’m at a friends or home. We will see.
On the other hand I did order a new one (same make /model ) last night.
Stay safe all
 

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Had the LI battery it on the trickle charger it came with all night. Started at 2.63 volts ended just a bit ago at 13.30. Reinstalled and bike started right up. 14.32 at battery with bike running. Now for a ride to see if it stays or not. Don’t plan on stopping unless I’m at a friends or home. We will see.
On the other hand I did order a new one (same make /model ) last night.
Stay safe all
Fingers crossed 🤞
Maybe measure it in the morning after sitting for the night
 

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Ride 47 miles including a stop shutting the bike down. Restarted with no problem. Im starting to wonder if I didn’t turn the key completely off last time I parked it and drained the battery. You would think I’d notice the lights still on. I was always under the impression a LI battery didn’t die slowly but just dropped out of service. But this one works now. Guess I’ll have a spare on the shelf.
Stay safe all
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ride 47 miles including a stop shutting the bike down. Restarted with no problem. Im starting to wonder if I didn’t turn the key completely off last time I parked it and drained the battery. You would think I’d notice the lights still on. I was always under the impression a LI battery didn’t die slowly but just dropped out of service. But this one works now. Guess I’ll have a spare on the shelf.
Stay safe all
Lithium does slowly taper off but not like wet cell. The one's I've had for camper will hold near normal 12v all the way through SOC.
These batteries have a bms that stops when almost exhausted. I wonder if your battery has something lessor for bms.

Anyway if you didn't have something like phone charger directly connected then I'm thinking the key might have been the issue.

If you don't ride everyday you should check resting voltage and again in a few days to see if stable.

This would have killed a wet cell. Sulfated it enough to lessen it cranking amps.
 

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I some how depleted the charge on my LI battery a few weeks back. I pulled it and put it on the trickle charger that came with it. Next day it worked fine. Yesterday after a few weeks of none use it started right up. So I’m guessing I somehow left the key half on if you can do that to kill it. Buts it’s fine now.
 
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