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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I have been riding for 5 years now and owned a few bikes, to start a 09 VStrom 650, 86 Honda Gold Wing 1200, and a 2012 Kawasaki Voyager. I traded in the Voyager and VStrom for the CTX and haven't looked back. I have slowly been adding my farkles to it but it's slow going. I hope to meet some of you that are in Vegas. I'm 55 years old and I love riding. :smiley-party0005:
 

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Hey rkVegas and welcome to the forum! Keep us informed of your bike's "farklefication" and setup your garage on the forum with pictures etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the warm welcome all. Getting a stebel air horn on the bike plus mounting sytem for my Garmin zumo 650. Day time temps in the Vegas Valley are getting in the 80's now...it's prime riding season!
 

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I have a Stebel Nautilus that was on my ST1100. I couldn't find a good place to mount it without it being on the outside. I didn't want that so went with a different option. Read on through the threads and you'll find it in the tech section. I think either CTX1300 Electrical or CTX1300 Accessories.

I still have the Stebel and am thinking of selling it.

edit: @rkVegas, HERE is the link to the thread for my 132db horn install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks Bob.

BTW...My wife is from Des Moines, IA. Urbandale area I think. She was born and raised there...we met online and married 18 years ago yesterday.
 

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Hi I'm the guy that works on rkVegas's bikes!
How do you get all these body panels off with out breaking things?
So far we have put the factory top box, tall windshield and centerstand on his CTX.
I'm currently working on a louder horn and navigation with Xm for him.
Mike
 

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Hi I'm the guy that works on rkVegas's bikes!
How do you get all these body panels off with out breaking things?
So far we have put the factory top box, tall windshield and centerstand on his CTX.
I'm currently working on a louder horn and navigation with Xm for him.
Mike
The owner's manual, which he should have in his left saddlebag, details how to take most of the commonly removed panels off. Generally removing the smaller ones exposes the means by which the larger ones are secured. If you need to get into the front area above the headlights, you have to remove the mirrors. Seek our threads on removing/installing windshields for help here cause I don't think that's in the owner's manual.

Jeff
 

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unfortunately panel info is not in the owners manual but is in the service manual... as it is with all bikes I've owned so far with lots of plastic.
As I mentioned above, there is really not much open space behind any plastic panel on this bike like I had on all my previous bikes that were enclosed. Honda really worked fitting things into all the spaces to lower the bike overall and compress it to the form factor we have, especially up front. I found the trickiest panel to remove so far was what is called the radiator cowl that are the black panels located either side of the radiator and in front of the cylinder heads. That one has a bolt through a compression nut to the inside in front of the radiator as well as the two bolts under the engine guard post. There are also a lot of plastic pins on panels that work the same as my Burgman had... I use a standard screw driver at an angle to press the center button in just 'till it pops in and then the pin will lift out. You then have to push the center button back to stick out before you put it back and then push the button flush with your finger after inserting it. That cowl panel must be removed, as well as the covers just behind the speakers, before the middle fairing (with the Honda medallion on it) can be removed. And then the top shelter may be removed. There are many tabs that interlock on these panels to reduce the number of fasteners, but it seems there are plenty of fasteners anyway. I am adding my flickr photo site link to my signature. feel free to look there for some photos of some of the panels removed. I do recommend one of you obtain the service manual. It will make it a whole LOT easier to work on the bike. Well worth the cost of the manual IMO.
 

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Thanks for the info guys!
I will not be buying the Service manual unless I was to buy a CTX for the misses.
I believe Ron bought the prepaid service plan so he will have the shop doing the maintenance.
I will be tearing into his from time to time doing custom install stuff.
Eventually he is probably going to want an electronic cruise like we did on his Vstrom.
Will be looking for a place to mount while I have this thing torn apart.
Mike
 

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...
Eventually he is probably going to want an electronic cruise like we did on his Vstrom.
Will be looking for a place to mount while I have this thing torn apart.
Mike
You'll want to have a chat with @kniterider about the cruise component install. I believe there is a space under the seat behind the right side plastic (just behind the upper right rear shock mount) where much of it will fit. Look for his posts about it for information or start out HERE and HERE for some information. You can also pm @kniterider for more info if you like. I'm sure he wouldn't mind.
 

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Well she's naked now in my garage.
A couple of beers and a Hey its not my bike attitude and I got those panels off :D
Anyone know if there is a spare power port somewhere hidden in this bike?
I see in the fuse block an aux. but don't see where it ends at.
I want a switched power source for the navigation.
Bob is definitely right about limited space to hide things.
Mike
 

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Well she's naked now in my garage.
A couple of beers and a Hey its not my bike attitude and I got those panels off :D
Anyone know if there is a spare power port somewhere hidden in this bike?
I see in the fuse block an aux. but don't see where it ends at.
I want a switched power source for the navigation.
Bob is definitely right about limited space to hide things.
Mike
No spare power "port" but the cable provided with 10amp fuse under the seat. I used this with the OEM pins in the provided dummy plug to power my 12v socket in the right saddlebag. I added another 12v 15amp socket under the seat for emergency use only (my Slim mini air compressor requires 15 amps).

For reference please check out my flickr photos, link in signature, where I point out where the AUX plug is on the bike (under the top shelter, to the right of the ignition switch, bottom plug in stack of 2 plugs). I'll have to lookup what the wire colors are for the AUX and GND in that plug. It's a 4 pin plug but only 2 are needed for what you mention. I ordered and used the same pins as OEM in the dummy plug. See the thread at the second link below for information about the pins (also a note in my profile). That's where I got the switched connections. I like to keep as much as possible all added stuff hidden other than a button or control. Check out these threads:

Initial installs
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12v sockets (x2) and OEM plug pin information
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Gerbing heat controller and GPS connection
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If I add any more electrical stuff I'll rewire the Aux connection to only provide a signal to turn on/off a relay to a fuse box that I would add, getting power directly off the battery. Reason= see @csdexter post comments below. :)
 

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The connector bob talks about is the front option connector. It is located to the right of the ignition switch, on the bottom (there is a stay for two connectors, the top slot is for the grip heater and the bottom is for the front option).
If you think that's crammed, the EU model has the HISS reader connector (also 4 pin) taped on top of the other two :D

The wire colours are Green for GND (ground, negative) and Red with a Green stripe for ACC (switched power, positive). Bear in mind there are other things on that wire and all of them are protected by a 10A fuse. This is the reason why I personally went directly with the relay approach.

If you read the threads he linked to, you'll also find out the exact type of pins and cable seals you need to get to fit that connector.
 
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