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I know that some riders like high handlbars, or need them due to their stature. But my forearms get tired and start aching just looking at those. Any higher and those would be ape hangers. I need my forearms to be parallel at least to the ground when riding any distance to be comfortable.

Looks like good work otherwise. :)
I've sometimes thought of making handlebars that are just as low as mine are now but narrower by about 3 inches per side.
 

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I'll bet that resolves the being able to see out of the mirrors issues, since everything is up and out of the way. Did you have to change out your throttle cables and clutch & brake lines? Looks Good!
 

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I'll bet that resolves the being able to see out of the mirrors issues, since everything is up and out of the way. Did you have to change out your throttle cables and clutch & brake lines? Looks Good!
What about viewing the mirrors?
Hard to tell from the pic, but the bars are shorter than stock?
If so, that would explain why stock cables are long enough after 3" riser added.

Looks like you got a good setup there....dog house garage/man cave.
Can just sit there having a drink and think about the next mods...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Man cave

My man cave is well set up, thats the non working part you see. Heres another pic with my Thunderbird Sport getting worked on. Most important part of house.:)
 

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new handlebars

Picture showing new handlebars i fabricated from 1" tube sleeved 7/8 at end. Sitting on 3" riser. Also made a rack for my Knappa top box.
I'm trying to figure out what you did with the stock risers and can't tell from the pic. Did you get rid of them and replace? Please provide some detail.

Thanks.
 

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I'd like to try something like thi. But my soldering gun broke.
 

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Ok,,, beutiful work,, BUT important question.. I have learned the hardway that the wrist angle on stock bars is so far off for Iron butt quality rides that I had to stop riding for almost 6 weeks after my USA 4 corners ride. Do your bars take the extreme crick out of the wrist angle and can they be safely pulled back instead of so far up in the air for short arm folks like me..I had to go sit on another 2012 wing to see what was wrong with the CTX bars for LOOONNNGG trips.. the bend for the hand grips forces your hands to bend severely as compared to the wing, shadow, magna an every other bike I have or have had recently

I have already sent a request months ago to Heli bars but no response
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I used a set of Harley risers, think they are about 3" rise and made the bars out of 1" tube with 7/8" welded in at ends to take controls. I did tried turning the originals risers round 180 degrees before changing everything out, this did help but couldn't see mirrors.
 

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Thankfully I found this thread. After riding this bike one thing I noticed was the positioning of the bars obstructs the mirrors. The reserviors are right there.. I am now looking at bar options that will be functional but not make the bike look goofy by taking away from the flow of it and I don't want to add mirrors and look like a Mod.. It's tough.
I already noticed I'd have to get 7/8s bars and thread the bottom. Now it's just finding something that'll look good yet make the mirrors more functional yet not bang the bodywork or windshield .
 

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@Richard Wentz, I don't say new bars won't be a good thing. But have you lowered your current bars per some of the very early threads here?
I had my dealer lower my bars so that the cables hanging under them are just shy of touching the storage pocket doors when they are open. I now have the same view of and through my mirrors as I had on my ST1100. The reservoirs do cover the very bottom inside corners of the mirrors, and the bottom of my grips and finger tips are seen in the very top edge of the mirrors. In between I have a good view of behind me. I am, however, considering ordering the aux mirrors that fit on top of the stock mirror covers as some here have done. Just to add a little more, but it's good as it is for me. Most dealerships set the bars way too high so the reservoirs completely cover the inside third of the mirrors if not more.

If I had the means where I am, I would think that keeping the same basic design of the current bars yet bringing them in maybe about 3 inches on each side, making them a bit narrower and more like the ST1100 bars were, would clear the mirrors rather completely.
 
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