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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title of this thread says I spent some time yesterday and this morning installing a bunch of stuff. The tall windshield arrived from the dealer Tuesday (today is Sunday). I have the RAM handlebar mount on its way from Amazon.com (eta next Tuesday). The electrical stuff I had to custom design wire length and connectors and a plate after I had some plastic removed from the bike. I uploaded photos on my flickr album:

CTX1300 add-ons

The windshield actually ended up being the last item installed.

I found the perfect place for my garage door transmitter. Used a Dual-Lock strip to attach it to the top center of the headlight assembly and just below the mounting bracket for the windshield where there is room under the front garnish. I ran a wire pair to a new button (old button from my ST broke as I removed it from the ST) and made a new aluminum plate for it mounted by the top reservoir clamp bolt. The factory bolt there is a M6 22 mm socket head stainless bolt. I already bought a M6 30 mm socket head stainless bolt to account for a spacer to bring the bolt head out of the recessed hole it was in. I used a stainless T-nut that was just big enough for the M6 bolt to slide into and yet was no bigger round than the bolt head and cut off the flange to make the spacer. I made the aluminum plate for the button from some scrap I had laying around.

I then checked out the available connector situation. I noticed in the electrical diagrams there are a few circuits not used but on the bike and they already have fuses in the fuse box dedicated just to those connections. The problem was how to connect to those pins in the plugs. I found an old computer mini power connector from my stash of junk that had some very small pins that would do the trick. The unused plugs on the bike have a dummy plug capping off the pins, but these dummies are actually complete plugs just missing the pins. I only needed to find a connection for my Garmin GPS power cord that was on only when the bike was on. What better connection than the unused factory ACC line in the front option plug? It is 2 pins of the lower 4 pin plug just to the right of the ignition switch under the top shelter. I disassembled the plug and inserted my pins and tested the connection. It works! :D There is also a space just behind the ignition switch that was perfect for the adaptor box for the GPS cable. That one done.

I ran the garage door wires and the GPS cable together on the left side of the triple tree following existing cables that ran up the left handle bar and used spiral cable wrap to hold and protect them (I like spiral wrap better than the corrugated wrap with the slit down one side).

Now for the 12v power socket. Just under the seat in the center there is a red connector and a white connector, and also a few black connectors. One of the black connectors, a 2 pin, is for the Canadian and European 12v socket that comes standard with those models. The cable and fuse (10 amp) are on our U.S.A. models but just wrapped/taped up and sitting there under the center of the seat next to those other plugs. I decided not to use that at this time. Maybe in a future second 12v socket that I would put in the right saddle bag for charging things on the road but not this time. I need a 15 amp socket to run my Slime mini air compressor if a need arises to air up the tires if low or after plugging. I already had a weather proof 12v socket with a sealed cap for the bed of a pickup so it would be perfect for on the bike. I ran that plug directly off the battery with an inline 15 amp fuse. While I had the battery disconnected I also added my Accumate Battery Maintainer pigtail. It has a different connector than what some of the bikes have been supplied with. BTW- I guess that battery tender connector that some of you have is not from the factory but a bonus from the dealer. Mine didn't come with that connector and when I asked about it my dealer told me it was not a factory item. :confused:

Now, finally the windshield install. I actually reinstalled all the side panels first other than the front garnish and mirror covers. The photos I uploaded show some things to careful about not loosing and also the location to move the center 2 expansion nuts for the windshield mount. Don't tighten those windshield bolts too tight. These are the same kind of mounting as on my ST and I know a few riders of older ST1100s who stripped the rubber bushing and at least one who now uses Velcro to fasten her shield on the bike (along with a few other panels). Here is a photo of the bike with tall shield and also the garage door button. Other photos are on the album link above.

100_4363 by 100_4365 by rshwery, on Flickr
 

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Windshield looks great. Thanks for the detailed instructions. Now I'm getting gun-shy about attempting this job myself; everything people are advising about (mostly lost screws, washers, clips, etc) are the things that plague me on what are otherwise supposed to be the simplest of projects. I swear there's an inter-universal vortex in my garage that sucks up dropped pieces. It's smart, too, because it doesn't touch dirt.

I've actually already got a problem with my right side mirror cover. While giving my front end a much needed bug cleaning, I noticed the cover wasn't sitting flush at the front pointed edge. After removing it and fiddling for quite awhile, it looks like two of the rubber grommets are not properly positioned, and the bottom one is missing completely. I'll be sure they give that a close look when it goes in for first service next week.

The kinds of things that give me heartburn.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh, forgot to mention... I got the dual-lock strips at Radio Shack. They call them Super Lock but on the peel off backing it still says Dual-Lock.

Ed- replacing the shield is actually rather easy to do. The hardest part is those top 2 mirror spring clips and if you hold onto them while you're removing them you'll not loose anything.

As to loosing fasteners or washers... it just takes a little care removing them. I hold a finger on the bottom side if possible to keep them from running away.

If there is a spring clip missing for the mirror (those are actually spring clips surrounded by a rubber band) then that is a Honda warranty issue that should be addressed. I found one of those clips with a tab bent to it didn't hold the mirror properly. I unbent it and all is good now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
While I had the left middle cowl off the bike I inspected it more closely and found the rear tab for the battery cover clip was broken. Photo of that in my photo link in the first post. The break is what will happen if the snap clip is not lined up with the slot in the tab correctly and it is pushed down on it, as during installing the cover. Since I had not yet attempted installing that cover yet, and the only person(s) who had/have are the dealer/service persons I notified my dealer and sent a photo of the broken tab. Just received an email from them that they will attempt to warranty that part and send me one ASAP. They only ask that I return the bad one. On my current panel I can properly seat that snap clip if I stick a flat screw driver under it, coming in over the storage box, and hold it while attempting to snap it in. It will hold properly then. Otherwise if I just try to push it on the tab just bends down and the snap clip never snaps in, causing a gap at that place. Honda needs to look at that tab and beef it up to better handle pushing on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The order from Amazon.com arrived with my RAM handlbar mount for the GPS and my CrampBuster. I took a little time tonight to put those on. I already ran the power feed for the GPS this weekend when I was installing other things mentioned so the plug was just wrapped around the handlebar waiting for the mount to be finished. Here are a few pics of those items.

First the CrampBuster:


Here is the back (front) side of the GPS RAM mount with my Garmin cradle:


And this is the view I have on the left side. Notice the GPS only covers the left speaker which I don't have to see... only hear when I use it. I can see the mirror and the entire meter cluster and warning lights and yet the GPS isn't stickin way up but is almost inline with the handlebar:


Now, if I can only figure out what loud horn to get and where to put it I'll be almost done with what I want added on the bike. I'm thinking possibly a single Fiamm Freeway Blaster mounted in place of the original horn (really no room for duals and at 130db I think one will be enough). I couldn't find much, if any, space under the plastic to mount my Nautilus air horn so that will go up for sale soon.
 

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Thank you for the great pic of the tall windshield, have that on order. Thought i would share this with you in regards to the Garmin alternative. This is something that I have used for the last two years and it has worked incredibly well. This app allows me a clean sweep of 100 plus on the highway due to knowing where every police man is , I have gained a lot of faith with it and it acts as an amazing GPS unit. the app is called WAZE and I have asked on the forum if it will work thought the speakers on the bike. Anyway i have included a pic for you to consider as the garmin really takes away the stream of the bike and wind flow. You can see on the picture the cops and how far they are. it also tracks cameras and other things, you will love it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Saw that post. I don't know enough about the sound bites sent by that app to know if the bike can manage them. And actually the Garmin does not affect the air stream in any way since it is behind what bubble the tall shield produces. The air stream actually comes up from under the handlebar and also around on the grips but not where my GPS is mounted. I've had this unit since 2010 and had a Street Pilot GPS before that since 2004. I don't have a smartphone and refuse to pay the data plan fees for them so this device works best for me. I prefer separate devices for different functions, especially when operating them is free. :)

Everyone has a different way to implement some of the same functions. What works for you is what you should be doing. This works for me. I don't worry about where any LEO is since I do stay within the limits on the road. I have no reason to give them cause to pull me over and they have no reason to look at me unless there is a safety issue I need to know about anyway. :)
 

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Hi, Bob which model of the Cramp buster you have? standard or the oversize version. CB3 CB4
I'm actually thinking of buying it as well.
Thanks and regards,
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the CB1 model listed as "The Original Motorcycle Cruise Assist" and is shown as Standard Long Size on Amazon.com. It's really not that long and hits just at the heal of my hand by my pinky where I have it. I thought about the shorter version but those are too wide for me. This one is just right actually, not too long and not too wide. Felt very natural on the way to work this morning.

BTW- compared my GPS speed reading with the bike speedo (finally). As reported elsewhere here it is dead on... a bit less than 1/2 mph off to the high side per the GPS. GPS units are known to be less than 1/2% off so that makes this the first bike I've owned since 2000 with a speedo that was anywhere near accurate. Usually they are up to 8-12% off. My GW and ST were both 9-10% off depending on what tire and tire pressure is so I've been used to just riding about 5 mph over indicated on my speedo. I guess I'll have to stop doing that. Even my Corolla is 5% off. But my Murano is dead on also... all per the same GPS unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update

Just to update. Worked on replacing the temporary pins I had installed in the front option plug for the GPS power feed with the official, correct pins that are made to go in that connector. These are the Sumitomo HX .040 female pins for the front option plug. I have a link on this information HERE. Another post following indicates an alternate source.
I also made a pigtail with a second connection so I can have my Gerbing heated gloves controller also connecting through this plug. Here is a photo of the connections under the top shelter. At the bottom is a black box with white writing, that is the Garmin GPS power converter. At the very top is the front option plug not plugged in with the red/green pair of wires installed. In the middle is how I took up the excess wire and also held it down to keep it in place.


Here is where the front option plug is located, now plugged in, under the top shelter. Just follow the red/green pair of wires up to the plug. It is the bottom of two stacked plugs. The top one is for the right heated grips that are not installed on my bike.


Here is where I ran the connector for the heated gloves controller. It sits just under where the front/side of the seat hooks at the front. The hooks clear the connector just fine. My controller will likely use some Dual-Lock on the side of the top shelter just in front of the seat point on that side. The gloves controller plugs into this plug and there is another cable that plugs into the pigtail running inside my jacket to each glove.


And just to show that it's easier to get the top shelter off than the manual might seem to indicate... Here is a shot of one side with all the panels off, including the top shelter, that need to be removed. I do not remove the cylinder head covers nor the side cover. I do only remove (in order) the seat, inner panels (battery cover), fairing pockets, shroud, middle cowls, then top shelter. That's it.
 

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Bob, you are AWESOME. Thank you for the info!
 
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Okay, nice pictures!

I do have the heated grips (I used them last night and this morning while riding to work with temps in the mid 40s) so I would guess that the front accessory power point is no longer available?

How hard is it to snake a thin two wire lead from under the seat up to the handlebars?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay, nice pictures!

I do have the heated grips (I used them last night and this morning while riding to work with temps in the mid 40s) so I would guess that the front accessory power point is no longer available?

How hard is it to snake a thin two wire lead from under the seat up to the handlebars?
The front option plug is different than the right heated grip plug that sits just on top of it. There are 2 plugs on each side of the starter under the top shelter. On the right side the upper plug is for heated grips and the lower one is the front option plug. The front option plug is intended to be used for the Honda OEM driving lights kit. If you don't have that option added it should be available to you. I don't plan to add that kit ($$$) so used the AUX pins (2 of the 4 pins in the plug) for something else as noted. You also should be able to use that plug. I highly recommend the service manual to find which pin is what. Good to have anyway.

As to snaking a thin pair of wires from under the seat...
Not difficult. I did remove the top side covers and middle cowls on each side, then the storage pockets and top shelter. At that point, if the seat is removed, there is very little in the way of just snaking a pair of wires through. That's what I did when adding my 15 amp 12v socket. I ended up with 2 12v sockets. One in the right panier using the factory plug (only 10 amp capable), and another I ran from the battery with a 15 amp fuse and bigger wire gauge for emergency use with my Slime Air pump (needs 15 amps minimum).
 

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Old thread I know, but why can't a person come off of the ACC power cord under the seat and run a split power and neg wire for two connects...……..

I have my done this for one of my ham radio power connects so that I can run it straight from power coming into my car or use a clamp on a car battery when in the field......
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That would work as long as the load stays small. That connector has a shared 10 amp fuse in the factory fuse block. It is shared with other engine electrical devices so the load is accumulative for everything on that circuit. One thing to note: DO NOT PUT A BIGGER FUSE THERE!
 

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Nice, looks cool. I'm going to give it a try!
 
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