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Its been about 4000 miles since my last oil change so yesterday I set out to tackle the job myself. I purchased 5 quarts of 10-30 GN4 and also a K&N oil filter, number 204. WArmed it up, popped it on the centerstand and then pulled the drain plug. No problems. Then a big problem Couldn't get the filter off. I have about 3 different oil filter wrenches and none of them would budge it. After about an hour of cussing, sweating, and improvising, suddenly the **** thing just came loose. Strange. However, when I looked at oil filter O-ring and ring seat, the problem became obvious. The O-ring seat was dry as a bone and the O-ring had a crease in it. I oiled up the O-ring on the KN filter and then spun it on. The KN filter has a nut on the end so torque properly was a breeze. I think the extra cost of a KN filter might be worth it. Did 250 miles today. No leaks.:smileygarden_de_ban
 
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I thought I was going to have to drive a screwdriver into mine to get it off, but I finally got it off and there was a lot of cussing. I couldn't believe how freakin tight the oil filter was. I don't like driving a screwdriver into the oil filter cause I've had them to almost rip apart before. There's not much room under there to work with to getting the oil filter off. I think on my next oil change I'm going with a K&N oil filter on mine. They're not much more expensive than the OEM Honda oil filter, I think they're worth the extra money especially since they have the nut welded on the end of the oil filter. That should make it a lot easier to change... I hope!
 

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I used a big jaw pliers

Hi.

I used a set of pliers that have a large jaw expansion to take off and install my filter. This worked well even with a center stand. Used Valvoline Full Synth for motorcyles Took about 5 min.
 

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JASO rating and you like it, then that's the oil to use. JASO rating and it matches what the manual says, then if you like it, use it.
I use Schaeffers because it makes me happy not hearing the shifting as loud. I still get avg 49 mpg and tests from the lab was always good.
Similar +/- results with other oils by other riders. Post 7 in the following thread is a 4t user if you'd like to read the thread or pm the user.
http://www.ctx1300forum.com/forum/engine-technical-discussion/9962-oil-questions.html
 

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How does everyone feel about Amsoil? I just got my ctx1300 so haven't had to change the oil yet and will use the Honda for first change but what about after that? Used it in my Shadow and never had any engine issues.
 

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@kellis61,
If you used it before and you are happy with the results, then it should be your number one choice again. If you use an oil and are unhappy with it, then you aren't going to be happy with the ride.
Dino oils, syn oils, or some of the non specific motorcycle oils like Rotella T6(but still rated for the wet clutches) will make the engine last longer than you will probably own the bike.
Your warranty will still be good as long as you keep records (at least in the USA) and change filters following the schedule in the owners manual.
The reason there are so many choices is because they all work.
The ONE and ONLY reason I can think of to not use Amsoil is if you need to purchase some on a trip. It is the same with my oil. But I use it just the same.
No other reason not to use it.
 

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@willajabir,
Thanks for the information. I am not quite to the mileage for the break-in change and will let a dealer do that, for warranty reasons. I saw some mentions of using stock Honda oil until the bike had a few thousand miles on it, can you tell me your thoughts on what that would be? 2nd or 3rd oil change maybe?
 

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I do agree with the recommendation to at least use dino oils until after a few thousand miles. I used Chevron dino oil for my break in change at 600 miles then went to Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic at 8000 miles (since I prefer full synthetic and this one is NOT resource or energy conserving).
 

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@kellis61,
I use Amsoil all the time. Having a background in offroad biking I switched to Amsoil for all my bikes mainly due to cost and convenience. I can go to one place and pick up all of the different oil grades I need for my various bikes. Haven't had any issues in the over 10 years of use and would recommend it.
 

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I did my first oil change last week and I also ended up driving a long nail through the filter to get it to move. I don't have much patience for filters so as soon as I see that it won't move, I pierce it. That oil was nasty. I installed a k&n filter and there you go, next oil change will be much easier. I went to the dealer to get Honda GN4 10w30 oil but they had none. Then the service guy told me that they only put GN4 10w40 oil now. It's supposed to be a more versatile oil as it's better for low and high temperature than the 10w30. So I got the 10w40. The bike runs really well, really strong.

One thing though. If it's been raining overnight or just very humid, I get the E-3 error the next morning. Heated grip switch blinks 3 times and the E-3 error message flashes in the screen. The manual says that it's a faulty switch problem. It only happens when it's wet. Then I start riding and around 15 minutes later, the error message disappears. I'll take it to the dealer when I have a chance and I'll have them fix this while it's under warranty.

Have a great day!!
 

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Thanks @Austin, that is good to know. This is good research as sometimes different bikes will have different recommendations. Am I also understanding that I can change the break in myself without messing up the warranty?
 

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As long as you have receipts and document that you completed the maintenance at the scheduled interval you should have no issues with warranty.
 

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Does anyone know how to access the oil fill cap.
Yes.






ok, right side of the bike, the valve cover. Pull it out from the side nearest your seat and then you'll see it.
Here is a video of the ST1300 which is the same engine. This video shows removing a plastic cover which we don't have, but the silver cover is the same (looks a little different, that's all).
Starting at 42 seconds in shows the part you ask about:
https://youtu.be/TP32ijUuNyM?t=4m42s
 

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As shown in the video just pull the back end of the cover a little, just enough to pull the pins out of the grommets, but no more. Then slide it forward to slip the tabs out of the retainers at the front.
 
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