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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I apologize in advance if there is already a thread on this. If so, I can't find it.

I'd like to take a little survey of what you guys think about:

Oil change frequency (8,000 miles sounds like too many)?
Filter change every time/ Every other time?
Exactly what oil and weight do you like (Florida)?
Synthetic?
How tough is the oil change itself (I have a centerstand)?

Thanks,
Tom
 

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Oil change frequency is fine. I know a lot of riders who change it out at 4000 miles or even 3000 miles... mostly from an ingrained learning from many many years ago when cars needed that. Not so much today. I think 8000 miles is fine.

I do like to change the filter each time anyway so that's OK too. Again, many years ago older bikes that had 4000 mile oil change intervals had filter change interval at 8000 miles. Most mc riders I know also do change out the filter every oil change... when ever they do that.

Careful on picking the oil you use. I am not saying to use any particular oil brand or grade but the user manual and service manual both are specific about NOT using oils marked as Resource or Energy Conserving since those have additives that will not do well over time on the wet clutch in our bikes. I've even noticed some full synthetic oils have this labelling so look carefully. Look for the spec circle label and the bottom of the outer ring should be blank.


The oil change itself is really easy. NO plastic or parts to remove to do it. I find a center stand is not needed to do it and, in fact, I would think that doing this on the center stand would make it harder to get to the filter. I put the side stand on a 2x4 block just to make room to get my oil pan under the drain (I have a tall sided pan). The drain plug is on the left and exposed. The filter is on the back of the engine a bit closer to the left... but easily reached from the right side with a proper filter wrench when the bike is leaned over on the side stand. Someone stated to wrap the exhaust pipes that pass near the filters with aluminum foil to keep any oil drippings off those. It works, I did that and had no excess cleanup as a result. This bike is the easiest to do an oil and filter change on compared to other bikes I've worked on. I use a Bosch 3323 filter that is a bit longer than the stock Honda filter, and better I think. I also have a SuperTech ST6607. This bike of course uses the same filters as the ST1300 and also same as my old ST1100. Here is a chart I picked up somewhere online from a pro on these things (don't remember the web site) for recommended filters (second column). I keep this for a reference of what filters I want to get.

 

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+1 on bob's post.
I use the Bosh 3300 most of the time, but there are many preferences and opinions.
Never had an issue with my Honda's with the long oil change.
My preference for oil filter change each time is because I'm afraid I'll forget which time to change, so it isn't because I don't think it is safe.
 

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I change oil at 3,000 miles, since it is the cheapest part of keeping it running trouble free. I use the Honda HP oil, so 4 quarts is usually under $25. If you use synthetic, you can extend the miles, but keep in mind, if you are riding short trips and/or I think 8,000 miles OR 6 months is what Honda says and you should change the oil. Anything less than that, you are considering it extreme duty so early oil changes are required.

I work in the automotive field and many friends work as ASE certified GM mechanics. They tear engines apart every day and tell me that they still change oil at 3,000 miles in their cars. Why? When you open an engine up, they tell me the deposits inside show them the oil wasn't changed soon enough, even though a computer measures trip distance, and how hard the oil has had to work. After they show me what they are looking at internally, I change oil at 3,000 miles. Since oil also has a lot of detergents, it suspends particles and if the oil is dark in color, I would change it sooner than 8,000 miles if the oil is discolored a lot.

I also have the centerstand...and it gets in the way of the oil filer on the aft part of the engine. I find it is easy enough if you have a knuckle joint to add to the extension, but the ***** is when you pre-fill the oil filter, it is tough to get the thing position THROUGH the centerstand piece and into place. Other than that, it isn't too difficult.
 

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Just returned from Walmart and figured I'd pick up some oil in prep for the 8000 mile maintenance coming up next week. Seems every time it's time to do an oil change I forget to have it on hand and have to go shopping first so...

Last time, when I did the 600 mile break in oil change I kept to dino oil and the only non-resource conserving bottle I could find at Walmart back then was Chevron-Havoline 10w-30. Even the Rotella full synthetic showed resource conserving labeling at that time. THIS time Rotella T6 showed it is not resource conserving. I've always used full synthetic in my previous bikes so decided to get it for this oil change. I do think it's best to stick with regular dino oil for the first oil change until there are some miles on the engine. After 8000 miles I think synthetic will work just fine.
 

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You're right about that centerstand getting in the way

I also have the centerstand...and it gets in the way of the oil filer on the aft part of the engine. I find it is easy enough if you have a knuckle joint to add to the extension, but the ***** is when you pre-fill the oil filter, it is tough to get the thing position THROUGH the centerstand piece and into place. Other than that, it isn't too difficult.
Last time I managed to wrangle the small ratchet in there to loosen the usually over-tightened factory oil filter. Then I carefully poured enough oil to dampen the filter media but not enough so it would spill out while I spun on the replacement oil filter.

THEN I discovered I didn't have enough room for the ratchet handle to tighten the filter! Somehow I managed to get the handle pointing up between the various parts of the centerstand and frame, enough leverage so I could tighten that thing.

Yeah, I better go find some kind of universal joint adapter for the ratchet before I get into the next oil change and start cursing again.

Aloha,
Huladog
 

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I changed my oil yesterday at 4019 miles. I am one of those guys who can imagine waiting 8,000 miles for an oil change.

I use Mobile 1 Racing 4T Advanced Full Synthetic 10W-40 motorcycle oil. I also use K&N oil filters.

Last August I did the first oil change (600 miles) without the center stand. All went well. Very simple. Yesterday I performed the second oil change with the center stand. The job is not as easy when on the center-stand, but still doable. I ended up spilling oil onto the garage floor because the center stand prevented my oil drip pan from getting under the oil filter. Also, the oil filter is tough to get to without the right tools. I have the right tools so it wasn't an issue.... just messy. Nothing a little cat litter can't fix!
 

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I have been using shell Rotella 15/40 in the bike same as I did with my Goldwing. I always change the filter with the oil even though the manual says oil filter every other time.


I change it every 10,000 miles. I have sent the oil to Blackstone labs and it says the oil is still good. that was for the Goldwing since I do not yet have 10,000 miles on the CTX.


It's a Honda, they make great engines. spend what ever money you like it will still run great.


John
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I change oil at 3,000 miles, since it is the cheapest part of keeping it running trouble free. I use the Honda HP oil, so 4 quarts is usually under $25. If you use synthetic, you can extend the miles, but keep in mind, if you are riding short trips and/or I think 8,000 miles OR 6 months is what Honda says and you should change the oil. Anything less than that, you are considering it extreme duty so early oil changes are required.

I work in the automotive field and many friends work as ASE certified GM mechanics. They tear engines apart every day and tell me that they still change oil at 3,000 miles in their cars. Why? When you open an engine up, they tell me the deposits inside show them the oil wasn't changed soon enough, even though a computer measures trip distance, and how hard the oil has had to work. After they show me what they are looking at internally, I change oil at 3,000 miles. Since oil also has a lot of detergents, it suspends particles and if the oil is dark in color, I would change it sooner than 8,000 miles if the oil is discolored a lot.

I also have the centerstand...and it gets in the way of the oil filer on the aft part of the engine. I find it is easy enough if you have a knuckle joint to add to the extension, but the ***** is when you pre-fill the oil filter, it is tough to get the thing position THROUGH the centerstand piece and into place. Other than that, it isn't too difficult.
Miks - are you saying that, with synthetic, you need to change it at the earlier of 6 months or 8,000 (whichever comes first?) And this does not apply with dino oil where you can wait for the 8,000 miles regardless of how long it takes you to get to the 8,000 miles? Please elaborate a little more on this. Thanks.
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good info Bob - Thanks!
 

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Ya, the dealer told me my next service was at 4,000 miles but after looking at my manual it says oil change at 8,000 miles?? All that is required at 4,000 miles is to inspect the idle, that is one expensive idle check I bet.


Seems strange to me to wait 8,000 miles to change oil, only go 5,000 miles on my Tacoma with synthetic oil.


Bought the Honda Full synthetic HP4S and a couple of Honda oem filters, boy they are sure small.


Actually I seen a comparison someone did on motorcycle oil filters and they are much different than your standard automotive oil filter. The biggest difference is the "oil bypass valve". When revving the motor at high rpms, the media in a filter can not filter the oil that is being used fast enough. There is a spring which opens under pressure to let the oil temporarily bypass the filter media until you operate the bike engine at normal speeds.


The components of multiple motorcycle oil filers were compared and it was found that the Honda oem filters had better oil bypass valve configurations than your standard off the shelf filter form Advance auto parts.


Not sure if automotive filters have this bypass valve but I do remember the comparison being done. Believe this comparison was posted on the v4musclebike forum.


Might try and go 5,000 miles on the dino oil that was used on my first 600 mile oil change and then use the synthetic I bought at the next oil change. Really like the synthetic oil myself as I put a lot of miles on my vehicles and don't like changing the oil so often.


Hope that helps out TomP
 

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Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters


Read the third paragraph down called 'Filter bypass and Anti-drain back valves'....its a pretty good read, still looking for the original post I was talking about.
 

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Full Synthetic should be fine for twice the miles of dino oils. Even my cages go long miles per factory recommendation. My 2010 Corolla recommends 5000 miles and newer models recommend 10,000 miles between oil changes. My 2006 Murano recommends 7500 miles. I have no problem with 8000 miles on my CTX. I changed the oil at 600 miles using dino oil and then switched to full synthetic at 8000. Idle check is really a nothing check... If you're paying attention to how your bike is running every time you ride it is simply redundant and not really needed. Engine runs near 2K rpm cold and 1K rpm warmed up. Things like this are why I have the service manual. I am persuaded that shorter oil change intervals are a brilliant sales pitch and brainwashing job by commercial business (guess which one) to sell more product. True, it doesn't hurt to keep fresh oil and filter. But to me it's a little bit overkill with modern oils and engines and parts.

My wife drives the Corolla all over town with some Interstate most days, I drive the CTX as my primary transportation, the Murano sits in the garage for weeks at a time and I take it out on an errand across town once in a while just to burn the dust out. Personally I think we need to sell one of the cages since we really don't need 2 and the money saved on insurance, plates/registration, and a little bit of maintenance due to time can buy a LOT of bus fare and even cover cost of renting a bigger SUV for driving on vacation once a year. Only time I don't ride the CTX to work is when snow or ice covers the road... then I take the bus.
 
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