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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a set of Rox risers and they make a great improvement but I can not get them to stay tight in the stock risers. I have them as tight as I can get them and with a little effort they slide lowering my handlebars. Was on a long ride today and at my hands my bars lowered almost 2 inches by the end of my ride. Checked to see if maybe the bolts came loose but they were still tight. I bought the 2" risers for 1 1/8" bars model 1R-P2PPK. Any suggestions?
 

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Rox riser issues

I installed a set of Rox risers and they make a great improvement but I can not get them to stay tight in the stock risers. I have them as tight as I can get them and with a little effort they slide lowering my handlebars. Was on a long ride today and at my hands my bars lowered almost 2 inches by the end of my ride. Checked to see if maybe the bolts came loose but they were still tight. I bought the 2" risers for 1 1/8" bars model 1R-P2PPK. Any suggestions?
Hi JB5, I have been considering the risers,but I also was concerned about them not gripping the bars.
Also troubling me,was cable and clutch/brake pipe lengths.
The brains on this forum are a lot better than mine, but it would seem that the bars and/or risers need to be roughed up somehow,I have seen some chrome bars with a criss cross pattern on them where the clamps are fitted.
Or is it that the risers are distorting a fraction.However I hope you find an answer here.
The time with me is 10-00am and raining with 60mph winds expected.
 

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As an afterthought how about using something like locktite
 

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Hard to tell without looking.
Assuming you did the job correctly, but just in case, are you sure you have the bars lined up correctly from side to side.
Are the bolts tightened down? I mean here, are the clamps tighting down or are the bolts just tight (Hope that makes sense).
last thing I can think at the moment is grind just a bit off so the clamp would close tighter.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The clamps are tightening down, and looking at it, both sides are flat against each other which i supposed would indicate the the rox riser is slightly too small to tight enough to lock down.. On another forum I saw a suggestion of using a piece of aluminum can as a bushing as it will compress slightly and be very grippy,, a few said they had good success with that. If that doesn't work then I will grind a bit off the riser clamp to get a bit more cap to tighten down.
 

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Honestly I would return a product like that (after a call to the customer support) , I wouldn't try any "experiment".
 
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Take the top of the Clamp off. Place a sheet of sandpaper 100 or 150 Grit on a piece of glass (it's Flat) and gently sand the bottom of the clamp. Check frequently to make sure it just Truing the surface. only a small ammount will need to be removed. Do this to both sides and it should solve your problem.
 
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On mine it is not the handlebar itself slipping in the Rox riser, it is the smooth nub of the Rox riser slipping inside where it mounts to the O.E.M. mount(where the handlebars were originally mounted). Seems the mounting "nub" is too slippery for the clamp to hold the riser plus the handlebar.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
On mine it is not the handlebar itself slipping in the Rox riser, it is the smooth nub of the Rox riser slipping inside where it mounts to the O.E.M. mount(where the handlebars were originally mounted). Seems the mounting "nub" is too slippery for the clamp to hold the riser plus the handlebar.
This is the problem I was having. I decided to try and use a strip of an aluminum can and it gave it just enough of a space to give another turn of the screws and now its locked down tight and doesn't move at all.
 

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This is the problem I was having. I decided to try and use a strip of an aluminum can and it gave it just enough of a space to give another turn of the screws and now its locked down tight and doesn't move at all.
I am having this same problem - Rox Anti-vibe riser slipping in OEM mount. I am going to try the aluminum can shim (Shades of "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance). How wide were your strips? I'm thinking about making a tube to cover both sides to minimize sideways slipping of the shim. Any tips?

BTW - It was really freaky initially when the bars moved a little on the anti-vibe rubber. I tightened the anti-vibe nut to take out some of that play from the supposed default setting. I may loosen it up some when I get everything set and used to it. Any thoughts on that?

The anti vibe part works well. When I hit a bump now, I mostly feel it in the seat but not in the handle bars.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am going to try the aluminum can shim (Shades of "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance). How wide were your strips? I'm thinking about making a tube to cover both sides to minimize sideways slipping of the shim. Any tips?
I made them just a little bit narrower and shorter then the mount. I used one continuous strip around the bar on each side. Still holding strong.
 

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My dealer put mine on while the bike was in for 600 mile service when newly purchased. Similar problem -- the bars would slowly rotate down when hitting bumps. Took it back in and had the bolts re-tightened. No issues since and that was 14,000 miles ago.
 

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Nothing has changed...

I just installed the anti-vibe risers. Same issue. You'd think that ROX would have either made the stub a few thousandths larger in diameter and/or knurled the stub. But they did not.

The aluminum can seems like it would work, but to me, a band-aid. Eventually that soft shim will squish and the bars could slip...just when you least expect it.

Sanding down the stock pieces also sounds like it would work, and be more permanent. BUT, we should not have to do anything to make this product work.

Have any of you contacted ROX on this issue? What did they tell you? I plan to call them tomorrow.

The way mine are installed, it looks pretty hideous. Mine are actually in a slightly forward position. I took the hoses and wiring out of their holders to install, but it looks like everything can go back into the holders with no binding at full lock.
 

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Columbo,

I have the Rox Risers 1R-P2PPK.

Initially I had some problem to properly tighten the bolts because the risers blocked access to the bolt heads.
Eventually I tighten only the 2 lower bolts (through the holes in the risers) but I was still able to lower the risers in order to access the 2 higher bolts from above. Once I tighten the 2 higher bolts the risers were totally solid in place, in 8 months I never touched again.

So to recap my procedure was:
1) Tighten the lower bolts through the holes in the riser, you can still adjust the riser position by hand, but barely
2) Lower the risers to expose the upper bolt heads
3) Tighten the upper bolts

Since you wanted the risers forward, I suppose you could reverse my procedure and start with the higher bolts.

I hope this help

 
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I had the Rox on my bike for a while, and I ended up making a pass with electrical tape around the mounting area on the bar to act as a shim. No slippage, and when I removed the Rox, the tape kept the bars from getting scarred up. IIRC, the Rox are slightly offset on the bars from where the factory clamps would be, so that might contribute the movement.
 

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Columbo,

I have the Rox Risers 1R-P2PPK.

Initially I had some problem to properly tighten the bolts because the risers blocked access to the bolt heads.
Eventually I tighten only the 2 lower bolts (through the holes in the risers) but I was still able to lower the risers in order to access the 2 higher bolts from above. Once I tighten the 2 higher bolts the risers were totally solid in place, in 8 months I never touched again.

So to recap my procedure was:
1) Tighten the lower bolts through the holes in the riser, you can still adjust the riser position by hand, but barely
2) Lower the risers to expose the upper bolt heads
3) Tighten the upper bolts

Since you wanted the risers forward, I suppose you could reverse my procedure and start with the higher bolts.

I hope this help


I have complete access to all of the bolts. The clamp simply "bottoms out" before the bars are fully secured! I know this looks a bit hokey, but sitting on the bike, this position feels comfortable to me. I have yet to take a ride. Not willing to chance the bars moving down.
 

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Columbo,

where the slippage occurs, at the handlebar or at the clamp or both?
 

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Columbo,

where the slippage occurs, at the handlebar or at the clamp or both?
It slips where the ROX attach to the stock riser. I think the same as everyone else here. There is plenty of clamping force where the bars attach to the ROX.



Reply from ROX:

[FONT=&quot]"We are sorry for your issues. We have had a lot of customers using our risers on that bike with no issues. The worry about those risers slipping in the clamps should not be an issue. We cannot knurl the riser post due to the fact that 6061 aluminum is too soft and will collapse when clamped into a bike. We’ve run these risers on about every powersport out there and I can tell you that we’ve beat these parts harder than any street use will ever do to them. When the bolts that hold the risers are good and tight, they should hold with no issues. Putting in any “shims” or anything is not needed. In regards to the post being made longer, we do have a non anti-vibe riser that has a longer post on it. Not many folks that we know of have been using our anti-vibes on that bike. The riser with the longer post can be seen here [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]A lot of things can vary with the rubber inside of those risers. As you are seeing with the one nut being threaded on 1 thread more than the other but then the riser that the nut is not run on as far sits closer to the clamp. That could be a couple different things. 1 being, maybe more weight on that side of the bar, 2, the bushings could be slightly larger than the others and so on. We have tried using a torque wrench on those nuts but we could not get consistent tightness on them because the nut is a nylock, and being run against rubber bushings, it was never the same. It’s much different when you run one of those nuts up against metal. We don’t have robots here to put those together, we do them all by hand. 9 times out of 10 when you run them on your bike for the first time, you will need to tighten those nuts because the bushings settle into place. Also, each machine that those can fit on can be much different too. Our factory settings are simply a start. With that bike having bigger, wider bars on it, it makes sense that the nuts would need to be tightened more after install. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Going back to the “stub” and the risers slipping. Have you tightened up the clamps good and tight on the bike and went out for a ride yet? There’s a bunch of keyboard jokers out there that have never even tried our risers that are quick to say, “those will never work without knurling” Little do they know that knurling our risers takes a lot of clamping force away from them. I’m not saying folks haven’t had them slip, I’ve had them slip on me on my motocross quad. I simply tightened the bolts some more and went racing. I attached a picture of me on that said quad. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I don’t want you to take any of this negatively at all. We take a lot of pride in making the best parts we can. Our #1 focus is to have our customers safe and comfortable with our products, and we will work with you any way we can. Let me know."[/FONT]
 
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I just installed the anti-vibe risers. Same issue. You'd think that ROX would have either made the stub a few thousandths larger in diameter and/or knurled the stub. But they did not.

The aluminum can seems like it would work, but to me, a band-aid. Eventually that soft shim will squish and the bars could slip...just when you least expect it.

Sanding down the stock pieces also sounds like it would work, and be more permanent. BUT, we should not have to do anything to make this product work.

Have any of you contacted ROX on this issue? What did they tell you? I plan to call them tomorrow.

The way mine are installed, it looks pretty hideous. Mine are actually in a slightly forward position. I took the hoses and wiring out of their holders to install, but it looks like everything can go back into the holders with no binding at full lock.

@columbo - On my bike, I installed the Rox Risers, and I followed steps as psullam detailed in this thread above. However, my bar was still slipping. As a result and "being cautious", I "gently snugged down each bolt a bit more in attempt to stop the slip. WELL, I ended up with a bolt sheared/snapped off in my right OEM riser! I was NOT a happy camper! (It is exceptionally rare that I over-tighten to the point of stripping or shearing the head off of a bolt or screw.) Perhaps, the bolt was merely weak or flawed from the factory or I legitimately over tightened - IDK. :confused:

After experiencing the headache of ordering a new $50 right-side OEM riser and hiring a shop to loosen the one with a sheared bolt followed by installation of the new, I decided to use the <aluminum can method>. I "knurled" and scuffed those shims/slivers very, very well in addition to some nicks to the nubs of the Rox to intertwine with the slivers.

Upon placing the slivers of the can, I re-installed the Rox AND, this time, tightened the bolts far less with great success.
 
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I wound up sanding about .005" off the OEM clamp. That seems to hold the ROX much better. Have yet to ride, but I have no fears at this point.

When sanding on a flat surface, it appears that the clamp may have warped from being tightened at some point. Dunno how strong it really is.
 
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