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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just hit 8000 miles getting ready to change my oil. Wanted to go synthetic since I had such good result with Rotella-T in my Shadow but wonder if not using the recommended oil will void my warranty. Comments from anyone else using Rotella and/or who can address the warranty question?
 

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I am still concerned about the Resource Conserving or Energy Conserving label on the API certification circle for any oil. I looked last time I was at my Walmart and noticed that all but one brand (both in 5W-30 and 10W30) full synthetic had that label. Those 2 oils would be the only ones I would trust as OK at this time until I learn some more about this issue. Rotella-T does have Resource Conserving additives per the label on all their oils, full synth or blended or dino, so I won't be using those for now. I used to use Rotella-T full synthetic in all my bikes before this one but none of those stated specifically to avoid the RC/EC label restriction like the manual for this bike does. For now I'll be using the one brand of full Synthetic I found that has a blank space in the bottom part of the API circle. I think that was Mobil 1 full Synthetic for very high mileage vehicles... I think. Would have to check again. I do remember it stated for very high mileage vehicles on the bottle. My first oil change I put in Chevron Havoline 10W-30 that was not RC/EC labeled (red bottle, not Synthetic).

This Resource Conserving/Energy Conserving thing has to do with additives that affect the wet clutch and may possibly cause early wear and/or slippage. Really don't want that.
 

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Just hit 8000 miles getting ready to change my oil. Wanted to go synthetic since I had such good result with Rotella-T in my Shadow but wonder if not using the recommended oil will void my warranty. Comments from anyone else using Rotella and/or who can address the warranty question?
Which Rotella T are you using? It looks like there are a few different grades. I agree with what Bob says about energy-conserving or resource-conserving designations -- you've got to be careful about what you put in a bike. These types of oils will make your clutch slip. However ... I don't know if using these will necessarily void your warranty. A shop is more likely to not honor a warranty for just having maintenance done somewhere else, including your own garage than to get so specific as to nit-pick what oil you used.

If you used this exact oil in your Shadow without any problems, I would guess you probably won't have any problems now. But if you do notice your clutch slipping either on hard starts or aggressive up-shifts -- particularly into 4th or 5th -- where you didn't previously have slippage, I'd change the oil soon for something that you know is good for motorcycles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
The Rotella-T I used for the Shadow (for almost 50k miles without a whisper of trouble) was full synthetic 5W-40 and my owners manual specifies 10W-30 for the CTX. I bit the bullet and bought the Hondaline full synthetic this time, but will be doing more research into other synth oils as I don't want to spend over 40$ on oil again!!!
 

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That's the same Rotella-T that I used to use. But, as I've said, this bike is different... I think. I know my ST1100 is wet clutch and I didn't have issues with Rotella-T Synth. on that one, but this is the first bike to specify what oil NOT to use. I think Synthetic is fine for the 8000 mile change and after, and also the 5W-40, but be sure what ever oil you use to check for this API circle on the back of the bottle somewhere and to choose one that DOES NOT say "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" as these are designed to increase slip (at least the energy conserving is, that's why it's energy conserving), which is what you don't want with the wet clutch. As I also said before... I'm still learning on this stuff. I was even considering Synthetic 0W-40 since I ride in some very cold temps during winter months, as long as it's not energy conserving.
What ever you use, I don't believe it will void the warranty... but just to be sure.........:350x700px-LL-66dd6d

I noticed that the Mobile 1 high mileage Synthetic oil at Wally world was $24.95 or there about for a 5 quart bottle.

These are samples of what the API circle looks like... regardless what the viscosity says in the middle. Auto or truck oils that will work should be API Service SL or better (SN is better than SL). And the viscosity should be what the manual calls for (or equivalent) so 5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-40, 10W-40 should be all fine. First number is cold rating, second number is what is more important for the bikes in normal operating temp of the engine.
 

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... choose one that DOES NOT say "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" as these are designed to increase slip....
From what I've read, Resource Conserving is Energy Conserving, with additional properties to reduce wear on other parts like emission systems and turbos, and it's also more compatible with engines designed to run on E85 fuel (which motorcycles are NOT). So you are correct -- we should avoid both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hondaline full synthetic

Solved my own problem when I went to the dealer for a filter and crush rings...Honda has full synthetic MC oil now...but it's wicked expensive so I will keep researching an alternative between now and the next oil change.
 

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Solved my own problem when I went to the dealer for a filter and crush rings...Honda has full synthetic MC oil now...but it's wicked expensive so I will keep researching an alternative between now and the next oil change.
Check out Castrol Racing 4T synthetic on Amazon.
Mobil 1 is just stupidly expensive per quart around here...

Castrol is about $7/qt when purchased in a 6 pack. Been using this stuff on my bikes and I love it. Can't find it locally but it's at a price where Amazon will ship it for free...

Amazon.com: Castrol 06078 Power RS 10W-40 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil - 1 Quart Bottle, (Pack of 6): Automotive
 

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I was thinking $24.97 per 5 qt bottle was a good price at Walmart (that's only about $5/qt). That's what I found for the Mobil 1 high mileage 5w-30 full synthetic that was NOT energy/resource conserving. The Mobil 1 high mileage 10w-30 full synthetic was the same price and same spec. All the other Mobil 1 and most of the other oils, including all the Castrol that they had, on the shelf were energy/resource conserving and therefore not what I would choose anyway.
 

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Does it have a wet clutch? Isn't the JASO-MA or JASO-MB the certification you want to see? Those will never be found on a "energy conserviing" oil, which have friction modifiers that can interfere with the wet clutch.

In the manual it should specify the grades of oil used, based on the temperature range you are operating at.

Also remember that 10W-30 means that at low temps, it's like SAE 10, but at operating temps is like SAE 30.

If you do a lot of high speed and use high revs a lot, pushing the engine hard, using a higher viscosity oil like 10w-40 may be indicated.
 

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Yes it does. And JASO-MA/MB are the actual/official motorcycle certs you want, but SL cert or better will also work as long as it is NOT ec/rc type oils (usually only in high mileage variety). The biggest difference here is the cost of the oil and ease of obtaining. Some of us don't think it is needed to spend two or three times the cost of SL/SN oils (like me) when these will do just fine. The exception is for riders who are more particular about it and just must have the official cert and grade indicated. The manual does specify the grade of oil preferred but is vague about what it means when stating "equivalent" is also accepted. I agree with the grade description you give. Have read that in many articles online. That's why I believe even a 5w-30 will work fine since the "5" only matters at rather cold temps... like near Zero*F. I ride at that temp sometimes, and sometimes even below that so I would need the lower first number. This engine really doesn't do the high revs like the ST or other sport touring and sport bikes so the higher second number really isn't needed (a 30 is fine in this engine). It may happen that a rider may push the engine hard but with the higher torque at lower RPM on this bike it is unlikely to be an issue needing the 40 grade IMHO. :)
 
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