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The often-mentioned air filter R&R

562 Views 11 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Gary9648
First of all, many thanks to the contributors who have posted in-depth pointers on the air filter R&R. I wouldn't have been able to accomplish this without you. And yes, I just finished putting my CTX1300 deluxe back together, and everything (so far) is working fine. But boy, what a PAIN IN THE @SS that was!! For a friggin' AIR FILTER!! BTW, bike has ~13, 750 miles on it, and the air filter wasn't terrible, but definitely ready for replacement. This job is not recommended for the feint of heart nor disorganized...
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First of all, many thanks to the contributors who have posted in-depth pointers on the air filter R&R. I wouldn't have been able to accomplish this without you. And yes, I just finished putting my CTX1300 deluxe back together, and everything (so far) is working fine. But boy, what a PAIN IN THE @SS that was!! For a friggin' AIR FILTER!! BTW, bike has ~13, 750 miles on it, and the air filter wasn't terrible, but definitely ready for replacement. This job is not recommended for the feint of heart nor disorganized...
I hear the Goldwing air filter is a four hour job. Some YouTuber did a review and said Honda took an air filter and designed the motorcycle around it.
It's why I can't stand modern cars. Everything is packed so tightly under the hood, it can be a many hours long ordeal just to change a fan belt.
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I hear the Goldwing air filter is a four hour job. Some YouTuber did a review and said Honda took an air filter and designed the motorcycle around it.
It's why I can't stand modern cars. Everything is packed so tightly under the hood, it can be a many hours long ordeal just to change a fan belt.
Absolutely 100% accurate. I'll be able to do the air filter R&R in half the time, next time. Still not looking forward to it. I just bought a '23 Toyota Camry Hybrid, spectacularly nice car. I'll change the oil and air filter, that's about it...
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I hear the Goldwing air filter is a four hour job. Some YouTuber did a review and said Honda took an air filter and designed the motorcycle around it.
It's why I can't stand modern cars. Everything is packed so tightly under the hood, it can be a many hours long ordeal just to change a fan belt.
thats what they want! they want ya to bring it in just to change a filter or belt. or hose.
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Absolutely 100% accurate. I'll be able to do the air filter R&R in half the time, next time. Still not looking forward to it. I just bought a '23 Toyota Camry Hybrid, spectacularly nice car. I'll change the oil and air filter, that's about it...
so your sayin changin the air filter in the ctx is not a job, its a quest!??
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I'm sure I'll get flamed for this comment but for all black top riding, I'm thinking closer to 25k before you get to restriction.

Changing to often is probably more likely to cause plastic panel failures than saving fuel/air issues. Obviously riding conditions makes a difference.
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so your sayin changin the air filter in the ctx is not a job, its a quest!??
That's fair. Maybe even an epic quest! If you don't already have some spare push-pins around, you might want to acquire some before you start. And, of course, it's almost inevitable you're gonna break one of the clips. I use super-epoxy to repair those, has worked great. But of course, you gotta wait 24 hours before re-assembly.
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I'm sure I'll get flamed for this comment but for all black top riding, I'm thinking closer to 25k before you get to restriction.

Changing to often is probably more likely to cause plastic panel failures than saving fuel/air issues. Obviously riding conditions makes a difference.
Personal opinion, you could do that, but as the oxygen sensor detects a rich exhaust and adjusts for it, you might lose some horsepower. I live at 6300' elevation, so I already suffer from that a bit. My Tacoma 4-banger really feels the loss of power. Your choice on whether it's worth it or not. At 13,750 miles, I probably could have gone a few more thousand miles, but it was due for replacement. Your call.
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Personal opinion, you could do that, but as the oxygen sensor detects a rich exhaust and adjusts for it, you might lose some horsepower. I live at 6300' elevation, so I already suffer from that a bit. My Tacoma 4-banger really feels the loss of power. Your choice on whether it's worth it or not. At 13,750 miles, I probably could have gone a few more thousand miles, but it was due for replacement. Your call.
thats about exactly where my miles are.i think i will wait until winter to tackle that monumental task/quest.
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RE: the middle cowl skin removal & replacement, Just be aware, if you aren't already, that first on the middle cowls, you need to release the clip (push-pin, rivet) by the front fork underneath, on the left and right middle cowls, they need to be removed. It's a small horizontal extension at the very front that tucks under the skin in front, go looking for this first, before the middle cowl is separated from the frame at the rear. Then, removing the middle cowl is accomplished by pulling outward on the middle cowl at the rear on each side. There are 3 grommets that pop straight out with a little persuasion. After that, you "wiggle" the side cover (cowl) forward and around the piece that sticks up behind the mirror and work it forward off the front end of the bike. And hope you don't break any tabs on the inside of the skin (you probably will). I repair broken tabs with super-epoxy, my current favorite is J-B Weld. It hasn't failed me yet. Be really careful on reassembly of that extension up front that reconnects horizontally with a push-pin near the shock; it's really easy to lose track of and get tweaked or broken. If that happens, use the epoxy again. Also be aware of the tiny tab that connects to a center strip below the headlight. Before you wriggle the skin back into place, you might wanna use a little vasoline on the grommet rubbers, makes them easier to reinsert. I use a Q-tip for that. At some point, you'll probably want to smack the skin in a few places up front, just to make sure the tabs have seated like they're supposed to. And pray. I hope this helps. After you've done it once, and understand the mechanical concept, it should be easier in the future. I've done it twice now, so I'm no expert.
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RE: the middle cowl skin removal & replacement, Just be aware, if you aren't already, that first on the middle cowls, you need to release the clip (push-pin, rivet) by the front fork underneath, on the left and right middle cowls, they need to be removed. It's a small horizontal extension at the very front that tucks under the skin in front, go looking for this first, before the middle cowl is separated from the frame at the rear. Then, removing the middle cowl is accomplished by pulling outward on the middle cowl at the rear on each side. There are 3 grommets that pop straight out with a little persuasion. After that, you "wiggle" the side cover (cowl) forward and around the piece that sticks up behind the mirror and work it forward off the front end of the bike. And hope you don't break any tabs on the inside of the skin (you probably will). I repair broken tabs with super-epoxy, my current favorite is J-B Weld. It hasn't failed me yet. Be really careful on reassembly of that extension up front that reconnects horizontally with a push-pin near the shock; it's really easy to lose track of and get tweaked or broken. If that happens, use the epoxy again. Also be aware of the tiny tab that connects to a center strip below the headlight. Before you wriggle the skin back into place, you might wanna use a little vasoline on the grommet rubbers, makes them easier to reinsert. I use a Q-tip for that. At some point, you'll probably want to smack the skin in a few places up front, just to make sure the tabs have seated like they're supposed to. And pray. I hope this helps. After you've done it once, and understand the mechanical concept, it should be easier in the future. I've done it twice now, so I'm no expert.
thanks for the heads up! it IS appreciated.
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I had not planned on changing mine until about 25 K also. The 12,000 mile interval me thinks is to generate income for the dealer. I ride on asphalt and concrete and not in any dusty areas so I really don’t think it is an issue. How about plug life? My Magna is suppos to have them changed every 8,000 miles. Anyone tried E3 plugs and if so any improvements in gas mileage and performance. Gas mileage is the the least of my concerns.
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