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Discussion Starter #1
Was just ordering some parts to fix a little head gasket seepage on my ST1100 and thought to poke around a bit. Found parts pages for both standard and deluxe CTX1300 on one of my fav parts suppliers!
Getting closer!!! :D

Here is the page for the deluxe: Cheap Cycle Parts

Also at HondaPartsHouse.com

Probably others now as well.
Note: not every part has a price assigned yet but many parts do.

Also found the service manual listed for the CTX1300/A at Helm Inc. (linky).
It's not available until 3/1/2014 but it's listed for $49.95. :D

I am guessing the helmet lock is a loop under the seat since the tool kit includes a short cable to use with the helmet D ring to secure it like was on my Burgman 650.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Why would I order anything yet? Honda reliability precludes the need to do that but it is good to have that resource available just in case. Oh, if/when I buy the bike I'll also buy the service manual at the same time. Need to test ride it first. :)
 

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you just wait, Im sure that service manual is going to show up as a free PDF shortly...

Although i know some of you guys prefer the hard copy for the work bench.
 

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you just wait, Im sure that service manual is going to show up as a free PDF shortly...
I hope you're right. I may want to install the Skene Design P3 Lights and Photon Blaster conspicuity lighting systems on the bike and will need to have a wiring diagram. Not that I want to take my bike apart as soon as I get it home, but these lights have literally saved my life on my Shadow and I'd like the same thing on the CTX1300.

Skene Design
 
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I'll still be buying the official service manual to satisfy copyright. I'll also likely obtain the PDF set to have on my tablet and computer. It's good to have both hard copy and electronic copy.

Those Skene lights look like the thing to have on a bike with all LED lighting. I suspect the 2 little screws just under the engine guards is where the OEM optional driving lights would mount so that is where I would put a bracket to hold any Skene lights up front.
 

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I don't do much heavy wrenching myself (oil changes, brakes (when I own a bike long enough to need them), and I'll add on my own farkles), but every once in awhile I'll get curious, especially if I've got some kind of breakage and can't get to the stealer. So I'll very likely grab a service manual, at least for the stuff that I can do without getting into too much trouble.
 

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I don't do much heavy wrenching myself (oil changes, brakes (when I own a bike long enough to need them), and I'll add on my own farkles), but every once in awhile I'll get curious, especially if I've got some kind of breakage and can't get to the stealer. So I'll very likely grab a service manual, at least for the stuff that I can do without getting into too much trouble.
At least some of us have that in us, the drive and know how to hack through it. Even with a service manual some people wouldn't dare mess with it.
 

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With only 2200 miles:( over a three year period:(:( on your current machine,:eek:I can understand that "ED"!! :rolleyes: :D:D:D Dave!!!
Ok, now let's be clear, these last few years aren't normal. I usually do 5000-6000 miles a year on the bike, occasionally more if there's time (and cooperative weather) for a bike trip. I have had occasion (or the need) to dive in deeper than just bolting on farkles. I replaced the rear brake caliper on the VTX1800, and I got really ambitious and put a bigger front sprocket on the Magna. On the VTX1300 I jetted the carb -- three times actually before I got it running right.

My problem is I usually run into things that I need to go look up how to sort out that somebody who does it regularly would know exactly how to handle. And I just don't have the patience for dealing with the unknown -- which is probably why I don't do anything like that for a living! Lately I'd really rather be riding than wrenching -- when I get to do either, that is.
 

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Ed!! Did you,or did you NOT,say that you've owned your TBird for 3 years now but only had 2200 miles on it???? lol lol Or did I misunderstand you.lol WELLLLLLLLLLLLL????? lol lol So!! If that's the case,why would you have to work on it cause it AIN'T been driven far enough to require any maintenance.lol lol lol I was only quoting you Ed,with maybe,just alittle teasing thrown in for good measure.lol,lol lol But I meant no disrespect to you sir. Dave!!!
 

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Mounting the Skene Design lights

Those Skene lights look like the thing to have on a bike with all LED lighting. I suspect the 2 little screws just under the engine guards is where the OEM optional driving lights would mount so that is where I would put a bracket to hold any Skene lights up front.
I sent an email to Jerry Skene with photos of the CTX1300 and asked for his advice on this. Here's what he said:

"I think the best place to mount the Photon Blaster LED is on the lower fender screw (item #8 in this parts fiche):

Fiche at CyclePartsNation

This would put the lights far away from the headlight, which is what you want.

The bracket I would recommend to this is the T12-S, which has a 30mm long 6mm screw and a 12 mm spacer. The screw on the bike is likely a shoulder screw that can be tightened up only to a certain point, to provide some flexibility for the bumper mount. It will be difficult to find a longer shoulder screw, but if you use the T12-S screw with loctite and tighten it up until it is just snug, it should work just fine.

The P3's can be mounted on the license plate bracket using the included brackets.

You may not be able to use the bike's tail light wire to power the P3, as it may be the same wire as the brake. This is commonly done on bike with LED tail/brake lights. Use the license plate light or another switched power source to power the P3 controller."
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I notice in the thread on the Japan Honda accessories that the factory driving lights are shown mounted just where I was thinking so the lamps sit up just in front of the engine guard blocks.

From the looks of the Fiche you linked to that bolt #8 looks like one without a shoulder but part #7, the collar, would be the spacer that provides the flexibility for the fender part. I imagine a longer collar may be possible but may not be needed if mounting there. I usually don't like the idea of mounting on the forks since there is a lot of shock punishment put on anything there. Personal preference.

As to power for any added lighting, including LED, I would never tap into factory wires other than to only trigger a relay to turn them on (as in for brake or turn signals). I would always install an isolated fused power panel (switched) to power them as I've mentioned on this board previously. There are a lot of riders who do their own add-ons or vendors who do this who follow the old school practice of simply grabbing power from the closest wire they can find for what they want to run, but this introduces potential for failures in the factory systems (often that don't show up until much later as happened to me) that would not otherwise exist. I experienced that first hand with my GW, and current more modern bikes are more complex than that was. Learned a lot about bike wiring with that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Since realizing the stubs sticking out just in front of the cylinder head covers were the engine guards I've been looking for confirmation of that and how they are mounted. Found my answer in the parts store diagrams. Turns out those stubs you see are actually decorative covers that go over the engine guards, even the diagonal bar under them where the OEM driving lights mount with 2 screws. The frame diagram shows the actual engine guards and they are bolted directly on the front frame tube in 3 places. Not engine mounted but frame mounted as they should be.
 

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Since realizing the stubs sticking out just in front of the cylinder head covers were the engine guards I've been looking for confirmation of that and how they are mounted. Found my answer in the parts store diagrams. Turns out those stubs you see are actually decorative covers that go over the engine guards, even the diagonal bar under them where the OEM driving lights mount with 2 screws. The frame diagram shows the actual engine guards and they are bolted directly on the front frame tube in 3 places. Not engine mounted but frame mounted as they should be.
Good to know. As I recall, the ST1300 has a similar set up (although I don't remember exactly what the actual guards are mounted to). Smart, so in case you do tip it hard enough to scrape stuff up, you're only replacing a decorative cover instead of an expensive piece of hardware. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm fairly sure both STs are similar how the tip-over bars are mounted. I know all about it on my ST1100 since that is the one hard part I had to replace. I bought my ST fall of 09, then low sided summer of 2010 at LOCSTOC. Most of the right fairing, mirror housing and mirror had to be replaced as well as the tip-over engine guard. 3 bolts to strong parts of the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Honda is finally making it easier to get at the engine with this bike. Not only that the lower engine is exposed but also taking off the shroud on either side of the radiator to get in that area (gray/black shroud below the colored fairing). It is mounted with some grommet snap fittings and some snap clips so that part will pull off. Much like I remember doing on my old GW for the side covers. Also, the side fairings, or middle cowl as the parts diagram calls them, from the mirrors down, are mounted with grommet pins and can pull off. NO SCREWS! YEA!
(note to self: if purchase this bike buy extra grommets to replace those that wear out)

Still need to remove some screws to take off the top shelter to get at the air cleaner.
Still, getting at parts on and around the engine is really easy on this bike :)
Something I like since I do much of my own maintenance and also want to be able to get in there to mount add-on stuff :D
 

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As to power for any added lighting, including LED, I would never tap into factory wires other than to only trigger a relay to turn them on (as in for brake or turn signals). I would always install an isolated fused power panel (switched) to power them as I've mentioned on this board previously.
Bob, can you suggest a brand that you think is good? I have seen a few over the years but I don't know anyone else who has used one. Your advice would be greatly appreciated. The last thing I want to do is mess up anything on this bike!
 

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Ed!! Did you,or did you NOT,say that you've owned your TBird for 3 years now but only had 2200 miles on it???? lol lol Or did I misunderstand you.lol WELLLLLLLLLLLLL????? lol lol So!! If that's the case,why would you have to work on it cause it AIN'T been driven far enough to require any maintenance.lol lol lol I was only quoting you Ed,with maybe,just alittle teasing thrown in for good measure.lol,lol lol But I meant no disrespect to you sir. Dave!!!
I most certainly did NOT say that.










Because I've only had it for 2 years.
 

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My appologies sir.I thought you said three years,not two.But what difference does it make anyways, cause ya STILL ONLY have 2200 miles on it. [in TWO YEARS] For cryin out loud,it ain't even broken in yet!! It's still gotta be just like brand new!! lol lol Dave!!!
 
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