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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of designing and prototyping a hitch for towing a small trailer. I have the design worked out and will be building the first version in a few days. It will work with the saddlebags in place. Anyone else have an interest in this?
 
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Sure. I was considering this myself to pull my mini-mate camper. After seeing a great many hitch designs on different bikes in my time of towing campers I was thinking of something that would mount using the 2 bolts that also mount the bracket for the saddlebags since they go right into the frame, and then run back and down between the saddlebags and rear tire to a hitch plate (there's space, I checked). Those would be the only mounting points needed. I would prefer not to use the exhaust mounting points if possible since that would allow some wiggle in the hitch (had that on the ST). Not such a big deal with a very small cargo trailer but can be very touchy with a camper, even the smallest camper. Any hitch would need to place the ball at about 12" from the ground with the bike straight up and someone sitting on it. You want the trailer tongue to be absolutely level with the ground when riding. This is much more important with a mc pulling a trailer than any other vehicle pulling one since the weight difference is less and the effect is more. Pulling a trailer with a bike is similar to pulling a large RV with a truck. Starting and stopping is where you'll really appreciate having the tongue level. Balance to get the right tongue weight will affect handling while underway, but level will affect it as much in a hard stop or fast start up. Want to keep both wheels equally on the ground at all times. I may only have been riding a total of 16 years, going on 17 now, but I've been pulling campers with a bike for 8 years at least. I guess I did get to rambling on there. But felt it important stuff to consider when designing a hitch.
 

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Hey Kookopelli, was wondering if you ever got your hitch done? Thought you said something about selling them, but can't find it. I'd be very interested in purchasing one. Please let me know.
Thanks, Steve
 

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I've been out of pocket for the past week because my father passed away. But tonight I looked into the trailer hitch and saw it is very possible. I have a flat stock metal bender so this is possible for me. My question is related to another post, has someone already made the flat stock bracket or do you guys want me to make one?
 

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I've been out of pocket for the past week because my father passed away. But tonight I looked into the trailer hitch and saw it is very possible. I have a flat stock metal bender so this is possible for me. My question is related to another post, has someone already made the flat stock bracket or do you guys want me to make one?
Kook has made one and has PDF plans that have been used by kniterider and I think another member (not sure). I do have that file but decided not to put a hitch on the bike. PM Kook for more information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Kookopelli, was wondering if you ever got your hitch done? Thought you said something about selling them, but can't find it. I'd be very interested in purchasing one. Please let me know.
Thanks, Steve
I did in fact make one that works great, but never pursued making some to sell.

I am getting ready to sell my bike and if the buyer doesn't want the hitch, you can have it for the price of shipping.

I will let you know.

Kook
 

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I don't plan on installing a hitch on my bike either but thought I would make them for riders who wanted to pull trailers. I'm not even sure how much interest there is. Please PM me if you want a trailer receiver and I will make/design some if we get a decent response.
 

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I contacted kook in Jan, he responded, but I only got the response and never got the pdf or wiring, etc.
I'm still interested in a hitch and wiring harness if I can get them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
CTX Hitch

I have posted these and sent them to someone about a year ago. Don't remember all the details because I haven't been active on this board for a while. Sorry.

Attached is a pdf file with drawings of all the various pieces and a 3d image of what it will look like. You can use one of the brackets off the bike as a template for the angle required for welding the top pieces to the sides. That is the same angle you want to replicate.

Note, this was designed around a 50 series tire and has enough clearance between the vertical plate and the tire, but when I put a new tire on, the brand and style of tire I wanted only came in a 55 series and when I installed it, the tire rubbed on the plate, so I had to move it back about half an inch. You might want to think about that when you build yours.

Link to pdf

If link doesn't work or if you need help, please ask and I will try to get back as soon as possible.
 
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@Kookopelli. I was the member you sent the plan to. I was thinking I sent a PM asking if I could forward to others if requested but don't recall a reply to that. I just tried the link you posted here and it works for me. The plans you posted to are actually more complete than the document you sent me IIRC. Thanks again for your work on this.

For those who want the electrical part of a trailer connection you can do a search online for a universal isolated trailer harness (Electrical Connection is one source) and you should find a few sources for where to buy.
If into making your own you should be able to find some helpful (I hope) information from an electrical block diagram I made (see below) when I was thinking of adding trailer towing capability to my CTX. Much of this I did install, just not the relays for the trailer harness.
This is designed for a 5 wire trailer harness (separate turn lights and brake lights).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I bought a trailer isolation thing from Kuryakin that was made for a late model goldwing. It was plug and play because all the connectors are the same as the CTX. When I get home I will look it up and get the exact part description.
 

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IF anyone starts to make these for us (ahem @menosabe ),
Then I would vote for the ½" rearward adjustment as I have the 55 profile tire.
 

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That's great info thank you!

What I need before that is to know exactly where the wiring is, is it under the seat and if so which one is it or do I need to remove some other stuff to get at it.

As you can tell I'm not a licensed mechanic! lol

Thanks,
 

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I am in the process of designing and prototyping a hitch for towing a small trailer. I have the design worked out and will be building the first version in a few days. It will work with the saddlebags in place. Anyone else have an interest in this?
I have interest in it big time. Please send it to my email at: [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OK Guys. This will be a post to show all the details for making and wiring up the hitch as I made it. There are probably some better ways to do things, but this is the way I did it.

In the link below, you will find a lot of pictures and drawings. The drawing for making the hitch is called CTX HITCH DRAWINGS. It is a series of 8-1/2 x 11 drawings that can be printed and used as templates for cutting out the pieces. I made mine from 3/16" sheet steel. I have provided a layout that will let you cut all the parts out of a piece 18"x24". There are a couple of critical details showing how to weld the side pieces to the bolt plates. These are important that you weld while joined as shown. You can use the existing brackets from the bike to attain the 110 degree angle that you need. Clamping them onto the two pieces to be welded is the easy way to establish the proper angle as well as to hold them in place while welding.

This was designed for a stock 50 series size tire. If you have or are planning to use a 55 series tire, you should move the UPRIGHT BRACE back about 1/4" as well as shorten the BALL PLATE by the same amount. I show a dimension of 3.21 on the BALL PLATE drawing. You would need to change that to 3.0.

You also need to match the hole size for your ball to suit. Some are larger than others. Also, I ultimately used a pin hitch on mine, which required a different size altogether. That is another post.

When completed, the hitch will go on the bike in the same holes as the saddle bag brackets. You may need to buy some bolts that are about 1/4" longer than the stock ones. Make sure to get the hardened grade, which I think is marked with a 10.9. You will need to put the bolts thru the hitch first and then thru the brackets into the frame. It is a little difficult to do alone, but I usually hang it with a tiedown strap slung over the seat so that it carries the weight of the hitch and then monkey with getting the bolts thru the hitch then the bracket into the frame. Snug all the bolts up loosely until you have all of them started into the frame threads and then bring them up to tight. I use thread locker on each one.

As for the trailer wiring, I bought two pieces that you can get from Kuryakyn (as much as I hate their chrome stuff, the electronics are pretty good). Since all the lighting on the CTX is 5v LEDs and most trailer lighting is 12v, you cannot directly wire a trailer harness into the bike wiring as you will blow something up right away. Besides, you need to isolate the trailer wiring from the bike wiring by using relays to trigger the various lights and turn signals. Another problem is that the CTX and most late Hondas with LEDs use a 5-wire system for the lights one wire each for Ground, R-turn, L-turn, Tail light and Brake light. The trailer that I have has 4-wire lighting wiring and connector. So, I found a 5-wire to 4-wire converter from Kury that does the trick. It is part number 7675 FIVE TO FOUR WIRE CONVERTER WITH 4-PIN FLAT CONNECTOR.

The 5 to 4-wire converter comes with a bunch of wire taps for you to tap into the existing bike wiring, but I chose to make a pigtail that I could use to do the same thing without cutting or tapping into any wires and will be able to put it back to stock in the event that I would sell the trailer and remove the hitch. I bought male and female connectors and pins to match the stock ones from Eastern Beaver Company. They make all kinds of connectors and pins to match about anything there is out there. There is a pdf in the folder that shows all the part numbers I ordered. You will not need everything I ordered, but will need the 6-pin and 4-position connectors and HX040 male and female Terminals (these are the pins that you populate the connector shells with). It is easy to confuse which pins go into which connectors and if you put female pins in a male terminal or vice-versa, it is a royal pain. You need to study them to understand which way they go into the shell and make sure you understand how to release them if you need to. There is information on the Eastern Beaver website and I found some other better details about connector pin orientation by searching google. I am not sure what that site was, so I can't refer you to it.

Use the Pigtail Wiring Diagram to build up the Pigtail with new wire and the connectors described above.

Once you have the pigtail built, you can locate the lighting connector under the seat. It has 5 wires on each side that correspond in color to my chart. Release the locking tab and pull them apart and connect the new Pigtail into each connector. There will be a 4-pin male connector coming off the new Pigtail. You will connect a 4-pin female connector from the 5 to 4-wire converter to the 4-pin male plug on the Pigtail.

The rest is pretty simple. You have to install a 4-pin male connector onto the 4 wires on the Trailer Isloation Harness that are intended to be tapped into the bike wiring. This will plug directly into the 4-pin female connector on the 5 to 4 Wire Converter. Then route the trailer wiring back to the rear of the bike and connect the flat 4-pin trailer connector onto the Isolation Harness and tie wrap all the parts and wiring into place.

There are a couple of ground and 12v connections to make, but it is pretty well explained in the documentation that comes with the Kury parts.

I bought the Kury parts at my local Honda dealer. They were $58 for the Trailer Relay Harness and $31 for the 5 to 4-wire Converter. You can probably find them cheaper on Amazon or something like that.

There is a PDF of the connectors and pins I ordered from Beaver in the folder I have shared at the bottom of this article.

Hopefully, you will be able to understand all my pics and schematics, etc. If you have any questions, just ask and I will try to help.

Kook


Link to pics and details
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
All that above being said, I am selling the CTX and so far, no one is interested in the trailer, so I am going to remove the hitch and wiring and return it to stock. If anyone is interested in buying it, I will sell the whole package for $100 plus shipping.

PM me.

Kook
 
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I sure do have an interest!
 
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