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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In addition to installing a Power Commander and a 3-circuit Fuseblock I also tackled another fun project to install a trailer lighting isolation harness and 5 to 4 wire converter so I could hook up my trailer, which has 12v incandescent lighting and will not work by just splicing into the bikes low voltage LED light wiring. The hard part was finding places to tuck all the parts for the lighting and isolation harness, but I think I successfully found nice little hiding places for all of it. You can't tell it is there except for the pigtail hanging down on the left side of the tag.

I have apparently loaded all the pics I am allowed to load, so some of the other pics are in a previous post about installing the Power Commander.
 

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Looks good. That pigtail looks just like what I was thinking of to add for this option. Good that you didn't try to just tap into the factory wires for power to the trailer. Bad idea to do that in many ways. Even if the bike lights were the old fashioned kind it's always best to use an isolator for anything not designed by the factory to just plug in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks, Bob. It took several tries working with those connectors because they are new to the guy who sold them and had no directions. Trying to figure out which way the pins went in was a trip. Wound up making that thing about three times before I got it the way I wanted it to be. But now I am an expurt.

By the way, everything worked the way it is supposed to work. Kind of surprixed there wasn't some kind of a hiccup, but I took my time and checked everything several times before buttoning it up. Thankfully, the bike will start and run just fine with all those pieces off. I was concerned that it wouldn't run without the top shelter on because there are several connectors that are part of that thing.

I did manage to break the infamous tab on the left side cowl. Going to have to go research that to see if there is a fix. Seems like I remember someone (maybe you?) posting something about that.
 
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My fix was a new panel with a good tab to start with and then to coat it with JB Weld. I've heard of some GW owners using that same stuff to build up a pin on some of their panels so don't know if that would work for you building up a "new" tab if it's totally broken off. If the tab is just broken so it bends down the JB Weld trick should reinforce it to stay put. See my thread for "the Broken Tab Story" for details.
 

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@Kookopelli forgot to ask... or can't find where you said...
What size pins and connector did you need for the pigtail that you made?
HX 040 or 090? I would expect the 040 since it's for LED lighting rather than for power (the power option connector is the 090 sized pins).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@Kookopelli forgot to ask... or can't find where you said...
What size pins and connector did you need for the pigtail that you made?
HX 040 or 090? I would expect the 040 since it's for LED lighting rather than for power (the power option connector is the 090 sized pins).
.040 pins are the correct ones for the pigtail I made to plug into the connector under the seat.

I will email you a pdf schematic I made up which shows the pinout. Use it if you like.
 
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