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I'm a little late in posting this horn update, but I have had a very successful out come. I bought a car horn on ebay for about $18 including shipping. The brand is "Carrand". The Model is 3-0115 4 Magnum Blaster Low Note. It states that it puts out 138db.

I have a decibel meter app on my phone. I have no idea if it is accurate, but I figure that any error would be consistent between horns. I measured the factory horn at 102db and the new horn measured 104db. This doesn't sound like a lot, but it is a pretty fair amount since decibels increase logarithmically as opposed to linearly. In any case, the new horn is definitely louder, deeper and very much like a regular car horn.

The new horn is taller than the factory horn and there is a clearance issue with the bike frame when mounting. I used the factory bracket along with one of the supplied brackets bent into a "U" shape. I attached the horn to one end of the "U" shaped bracket and the other end to the factory bracket. Pretty simple. I do wish these things came with marine grade hardware and someday I'll get around to replacing the hardware.

For some reason, I can only post one pic here (somebody help me with this). If you look closely, you can see the "U" shaped bracket in between the horn and factory bracket which gave me the necessary clearance.
 

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(...)
I have a decibel meter app on my phone. I have no idea if it is accurate, but I figure that any error would be consistent between horns. I measured the factory horn at 102db and the new horn measured 104db. This doesn't sound like a lot, but it is a pretty fair amount since decibels increase logarithmically as opposed to linearly. In any case, the new horn is definitely louder, deeper and very much like a regular car horn.
(...)
The phone's microphone most likely cannot handle the SPL levels you're trying to measure. In the very unlikely case that it can actually maintain linearity at over 130dB SPL(A), the codec behind it (i.e. the chip that transforms the analog signal from the microphone into data -- NOT the software that further encodes that data for transmission over the mobile network) is clipping most of what you're trying to measure because it simply doesn't have the needed dynamic range, being primarily intended for voice.

Try with a cheap but real SPL meter and you should see clearly different numbers between the stock horn and your replacement ;-)
 

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Most of the loudest horns I've found, example my old Stebel Nautilus, advertise 138 dB but are measured very close to the output of the horn to get that reading. I think Stebel measures at about a foot from the output per the Stebel support information received when I emailed them. My current aftermarket horn was measured 132 dB at one meter (I think) from the output and many others are as well. Some horns are measured at two meters from output. dB output doubles for every 3 dB measured. There is a formula, that I forget now, to calculate how much dB drops per meter or foot distant from source. I calculated my Stebel horn to be about 121 dB at 2 meters. But it was still the loudest horn I've found to put on a bike at the time (was on my ST). Couldn't find a location on the CTX where it would fit so went with option 2 from the local Auto Zone for the 132 dB horn... still loud.
 

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In air at a temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit, sound waves travel at approximately 1128 feet per second. Air temperature and density effect the distance of a sound wave.

Formula for speed of sound wave: speed=√((coefficient stiffness)/density)

Amplitude is a measure of how much energy is contained in the compression (rarefaction) of molecules that make a sound wave (signal wave). Amplitude, also referred to as a sounds loudness or volume, is represented by the abbreviation dB (decibel). A decibel is best measured using the mathematical equation root mean square (RMS) which might provide an immediate measurement. The most accurate means of getting an accurate measurement, and generally more useful, would be to get the average sound pressure level (SPL) over a period of time.

Formula for root mean square: rms=√((x_1^2+x_2^2+x_n^2)/n)
 

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Amazing!

In air at a temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit, sound waves travel at approximately 1128 feet per second. Air temperature and density effect the distance of a sound wave.

Formula for speed of sound wave: speed=√((coefficient stiffness)/density)

Amplitude is a measure of how much energy is contained in the compression (rarefaction) of molecules that make a sound wave (signal wave). Amplitude, also referred to as a sounds loudness or volume, is represented by the abbreviation dB (decibel). A decibel is best measured using the mathematical equation root mean square (RMS) which might provide an immediate measurement. The most accurate means of getting an accurate measurement, and generally more useful, would be to get the average sound pressure level (SPL) over a period of time.

Formula for root mean square: rms=√((x_1^2+x_2^2+x_n^2)/n)

I was thinking the very same thing!:smileygarden_de_ban

Now getting back to basics...
I have an idea of a possible better (more realistic) way to take measurements for comparison. Take A / B readings at a good distance from the bike ( 2 people needed of course). Get far enough away to be a realistic distance for attempting to get attention from someone near by be it pedestrian,cage, or another bike. That will reveal a better sense of how the horns are reacting to their mounting on the bike and general environment. Plus you can be taking readings at lower scale reading on meter be it an SPL meter or app on a phone. So less a concern with saturation limits etc. Actual number accuracy will be less important than the difference in the numbers. Plus you can take into account the human ear factor by how each get your attention and that is what is key.
Personally, I want to figure out how to fit a Denali Sound bomb as it is the most obnoxious horn I have heard (so far) from a distance. And isn't that what're want so to get noticed and give a warning of presence?! :cool:
If unsuccessful, maybe try same with GL1800 set or similar .:confused:
 

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I'm a little late in posting this horn update, but I have had a very successful out come.
Tom,

Did you "plug and play" with the existing wiring, or did you add an additional relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tom,

Did you "plug and play" with the existing wiring, or did you add an additional relay?

Thought I answered this, but maybe not. Sorry. Yes, plug and play. Very simple after you get past the minor horn clearance issue.
 

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I wonder what the power draw is on the new horn?

I put on two highway Blaster horn,

One Horn is High pitch and One Horn Is Low pitch,

Cause some people are deaf to low or medium pitch sound, but can hear a higher pitch.

Each horn is 132decibels .

A relay right off of the battery is a very good idea do to the higher draw, these two horns have,

The sound of the 2 Horns will be at their Loudest with the relay in this fashion, and you will be saving your bikes wiring, in case the draw is much more than you expected.
 

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Got rid of the wimpy horn

I swapped out my wimpy roadrunner horn last night. I liked the sound of the horn I had on my 2011 Honda Fury, so I ordered one from my Honda dealer and got it put on and it sounds 100 times better! :)
 

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bottom line, does it honk?
and is it enough to get those douchebags off of their phones and make the roads safer?
i have a wolo badboy, that i still want to install, and the ctx will be the forum

darrell
 
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